Fruit and berry plants
Reparability is the ability of plants to bear repeated or repeated fruiting during one growing season. Reparability is observed in crops such as strawberries, strawberries, raspberries and some citrus fruits.
In this article, we will introduce you to the rules for growing remontant strawberries: how to plant and care for remontant strawberries at different times of the year, how to protect them from pests and diseases, how to propagate and how to cut remontant strawberries.
Read more about growing remontant strawberries below.
Unlike ordinary strawberries, which lay fruit buds during the short daylight hours, remontant varieties of the crop form them during long (DSD) or neutral (NDM) daylight hours. Remaining strawberries in the open field give two harvests of berries per season - in July and in August-September, and the second harvest is much more abundant than the first - from 60 to 90% of the total number of fruits per season. The problem is that not all bushes are able to withstand such a load, and many of them, after bearing fruit, die.
You can buy seedlings of remontant strawberries in a nursery or in a garden pavilion, or you can buy seeds and grow seedlings from them yourself. However, the cultivation of remontant strawberries from seeds suggests that the soil moisture for sowing should be in the range of 70-80%. To achieve this, you need to pour 700-800 ml of water into 1 kg of dry substrate (light humus earth or universal soil) and mix this composition thoroughly so that no lumps remain. Then, containers with a diameter of 10-15 cm are filled with a moistened substrate, leaving 3 cm free to the edge.
Seeds of remontant strawberries are laid out on the surface of the substrate and sprinkled with a thin layer of dry substrate or sand, after which the crops are lightly sprayed from a fine spray, covered with film or glass and placed in a warm, bright place. Sowing is carried out in the middle lane in late February or early March, and in warmer regions 2-3 weeks earlier.
Before the appearance of seedlings, the soil with crops is kept in a slightly moist state. If the room temperature is kept at 18-20 ºC, seedlings may appear in 10-15 days. As soon as this happens, transfer the containers with sprouts to the windowsill of a well-lit window, and if this is difficult, arrange for the seedlings so that they do not stretch out, additional lighting. At this stage, the seedlings need regular ventilation.
In the development phase, seedlings have 2-3 true leaves, that is, after about one and a half to two months, they are dived into spacious boxes or in separate pots. Seedlings are transplanted to the same depth at which they grew before the pick. And one and a half to two weeks before planting the seedlings in the open ground, the seedlings are hardened: every day they are taken out for a while on a balcony, terrace or yard, gradually increasing the duration of the session. As soon as the seedlings adapt to the external conditions, they can be planted in the garden.
It is better to grow remontant strawberries in an area where previously such vegetables as radishes, parsley, legumes, carrots, beets, garlic, calendula and mustard grew. And after crops such as potatoes, cucumbers, tomatoes, raspberries and cabbage, it is not recommended to grow remontant strawberries. A plot for strawberries is chosen sunny and leveled, on which water will not stagnate. Soils are preferable loamy and sandy loamy neutral or slightly acidic reaction. Sod-podzolic and peaty soil for growing remontant strawberries are not suitable.
Seedlings are planted around mid-May or a little later, when the threat of recurrent night frosts has passed. If you decide to plant remontant strawberry bushes before winter, then it is better to do this from mid-August to late September.
The soil for remontant strawberries must be prepared in advance: for spring planting - in autumn, and for autumn spring. Dig up the ground on the site with a pitchfork, clearing the future planting site from weeds and introducing a bucket of humus, manure or compost into the soil and 5 kg of wood ash for each m². A month before planting seedlings, add 20 g of potassium sulfate and 40 g of superphosphate to the soil, or one tablespoon of Kaliyphos for each square meter.
Seedlings of remontant strawberries are planted in two ways - carpet and ordinary. With the carpet method, the seedlings are planted according to the scheme of 20x20 cm, and with the row method, the distance between the seedlings in a row is maintained at a distance of 20-25 cm, and between the rows - 70 cm.
On a cloudy day, make holes on the site, water them and transfer the seedlings into them along with an earthen clod. You can plant two seedlings in one hole. When planting seedlings, make sure that the roots in the hole do not bend, and the hearts are just above the surface of the site. Squeeze the soil around the bushes thoroughly so that there are no voids in the roots, and pour over the strawberries.
If you plant remontant strawberries in the spring, its fruiting, most likely, will begin only after a year, besides, not everywhere in mid-May the soil is already warmed up so that the thermophilic remontant varieties immediately begin to grow and develop. Therefore, gardeners are increasingly resorting to the autumn planting of remontant strawberries, especially since the technique for its implementation has been worked out to the subtleties.
Planting remontant strawberries in late summer or early autumn gives them time to settle down and get stronger for the winter without such hindrances as harmful insects and pathogens of fungal diseases. Repair strawberries are planted in the ground in the fall in the same order as in the spring.
The care and cultivation of remontant strawberries is somewhat different from the cultivation of ordinary garden strawberries. Berries of remontant varieties are large in size - some of them can reach 100 g in weight, but such success is possible only if the conditions of agricultural cultivation are observed.
After planting strawberries in spring, it is advisable to mulch the bed with straw, peat, pine needles, sawdust or cover with black agrofibre - this measure will allow moisture to remain in the soil longer, and it will not be possible to water the strawberries so often. In general, caring for remontant strawberries includes watering it, carefully loosening the soil around the bushes, removing weeds from the garden in a timely manner, regular feeding and protection from diseases and pests.
In early spring, old yellow leaves are removed from last year's remontant strawberries and ammonium nitrate is added to the soil. The next nitrogen fertilization is applied at the end of May.
For the first time, remontant strawberries bear fruit in the spring, but it makes sense to sacrifice the spring harvest in order to collect more berries in the fall, especially since the spring remontant berries are much inferior in taste to the fruits of ordinary garden strawberries. And if you, in addition to remontant varieties, also grow ordinary ones, enjoy their fruits in the spring, and remove the flower stalks from remontant strawberries as soon as they appear, and then the bushes will retain strength for abundant autumn fruiting and will give you berries of much higher taste.
However, this technique is only effective for annual and biennial shrubs. Although, if you take good care of the remontant strawberries and regularly feed, you will be able to pick berries from it twice a season.
How to care for remontant strawberries in summer? After you take the first crop, you need to prepare the remontant strawberries for the second fruiting. To do this, you need to regularly fertilize, water and loosen the soil around the bushes. To enhance re-flowering, cut the leaves, taking care not to damage the apical bud. However, in some remontant varieties, fruits are formed on the rosettes of the mustache, so it is better not to cut the leaves of such strawberries.
Repaired strawberries in the summer, in August, begin their second fruiting.
Very often, after the second fruiting, one has to engage in planting new remontant bushes, since not every plant can withstand such a serious load. On average, with good care, the remontant strawberry bush lives and bears fruit for three years, but much depends not only on your efforts, but also on the climatic conditions of the area and on the composition of the soil.
There is a special scheme for moisturizing strawberry beds, since the culture has a superficial root system, and it cannot take moisture from the deep layers of the soil, while strawberry leaves intensively evaporate moisture. They moisten remontant strawberries, like garden ones, regularly, but they need moisture even more than ordinary varieties, especially in extreme heat and during the fruiting period. Watering is carried out early in the morning or in the evening and only with warm water.
After planting, young bushes are watered daily for the first few days, and then switched to watering once every 2-4 days. For last year's bushes, the first spring watering, provided there is a small amount of natural precipitation, is carried out at the end of April. In May and June, another 3-4 waterings need to be carried out, and from August to September, remontant strawberries are watered at least twice a month. The soil in the beds should be moistened to a depth of 2-3 cm. The next day after watering or after rain, the soil should be loosened around the bushes to provide the strawberry roots with air and destroy the crust that forms on the surface.
We remind you that mulching the beds or covering the plot with black agrofibre will allow you to spend less time and effort on watering, weeding and loosening the soil in the beds with remontant strawberries.
Fertilization of remontant strawberries is one of the most important conditions for obtaining high yields and prolonging the life of plants, since they need constant supply of potassium and nitrogen. Particularly dependent on fertilizing NSD varieties. Phosphorus, if it was introduced in the required amount before planting, will not need to be applied to the soil in the current season, you can mulch the garden bed with humus, spending 2-3 kg per square meter, or manure at the rate of 5-6 kg per the same unit of area ...
At the end of May, remontant strawberries are fertilized with a one to two percent solution of urea, and around the second half of June, during the extension of the peduncles of the second harvest, the beds can be watered with a solution of chicken droppings or slurry, for which a bucket of droppings are diluted with 8-10 parts of water, and a bucket of concentrated slurry - 3-4 parts.
In total, from 10 to 15 complex dressings are carried out per season. The remontant strawberry is fertilized until late autumn, while its roots are vegetating, otherwise it will retire weakened and exhausted. Used for dressing not only organic, but also mineral fertilizers, for example, Solution, Kemiru lux or Kristallin.
Actually, there is no point in replanting remontant strawberry bushes, since it is short-lived and usually lasts no more than three to four years, even with very good care. And we will tell you how to transplant the formed daughter outlets in the section on reproduction of remontant varieties.
But if you still have a need to transplant strawberry bushes, you should understand that in the fall this is done no later than three weeks before frost. Transplanting remontant strawberries in the spring will deprive you of the opportunity to get a quick harvest, so transplant them as early as possible, until the flower stalks appear, and then you can get the first berries after mid-July. If the flower stalks have already appeared, you will have to remove them in order to allow the strawberries to expend energy on successful rooting and adaptation, and not on flowering.
After the end of autumn fruiting, the leaves must be carefully removed from the bushes, trying not to damage the axils of the upper leaves, since it is in them that the plant lays the fruit buds of the next year. Leaves are removed in order to get rid of probable infections and pests - only mature healthy shoots will remain for the winter. Pruning remontant strawberries should be completed with preventive treatment of the site from diseases and pests.
Whiskers can be trimmed throughout the season or not trimmed at all. Some gardeners believe that they should be cut so that the plantings do not thicken, but others argue that some varieties of remontant strawberries bear fruit on daughter rosettes growing on the mustache, so you cannot cut the mustache, and so that the plantings do not overgrow, you just need to plant the bushes at a considerable distance apart. However, in anticipation of winter, if you are going to trim the leaves of remontant strawberries, you should also trim the mustache.
In the spring, old, yellow, overwintered leaves are cut off from strawberry bushes, if you did not cut them in the previous fall, after which they treat remontant strawberries from diseases and pests. And I must say that many gardeners prefer to cut remontant strawberries in the spring.
We have already described the propagation of remontant strawberries by seed seedlings. How else can this type of strawberry be propagated?
If you want to expand your patch of strawberry with rooted whiskers, you will have to sacrifice a second crop. During the first fruiting, mark for yourself the strongest and most developed annual bushes, spread their first mustache into grooves made along the side of the garden bed, and the rest of the mustache will have to be cut so that they do not weaken the mother bush. After a while, sprouts will begin to appear on the mustache, but you will only need to leave the first rosettes. Trim the second order whiskers, however, do not separate the first rosettes from the mother plant.
While they are gaining volume and strength, water and weed the soil around them. Separate the outlets from the mother plant a week before replanting the outlets, and then replant them as described at the beginning of the article.
This method of propagation of remontant strawberries is used when there is not enough planting material. They divide developed bushes of two, three and four years of age with strong roots - by this age, the bush has already formed many shoots-horns, each of which has a rosette of leaves. Such a bush is dug up in early spring or autumn, carefully divided into horns, and then planted in a garden bed.
With the onset of autumn, watering of strawberries is gradually reduced, sanitary pruning is carried out, if there is confidence that the remontant strawberry should be cut in the fall, preventive treatment against diseases and pests is carried out, after which they allow the remontant strawberry to survive a couple of frosts and only after that they cover it with non-woven for the winter material, although where winters are short and mild, sawdust, fallen leaves, hay or straw can be used as shelter. Old bushes, which are unlikely to bear fruit next season, need to be dug out before the first snow.
The remontant strawberry suffers from the same diseases as the usual garden strawberry: gray rot, powdery mildew, white and brown spots and fusarium wilting.
Of the pests, the most common attack on remontant strawberries is aphids, wasps, strawberry mites, weevils, beetles and their larvae, nematodes, ants, slugs and birds. Diseases and pests of remontant strawberries, as well as ways to get rid of them, are described in detail in an article already posted on our website.
As already mentioned, there are two types of remontant strawberries - NSD (neutral daylight hours) and DSD (long daylight hours). The former bear fruit continuously, while the latter give two or three harvests per season. In addition, remontant varieties are divided into those that form a mustache and those that do not, as well as small-fruited and large-fruited. We offer you a description of varieties of remontant strawberries for growing in warm regions, in the middle lane and Siberia.
The best varieties of remontant strawberries for the Moscow region:
In addition to those described, remontant strawberries for the Moscow region of the varieties Cascade, Cardinal, Queen Elizabeth 2, Ostara, Sweet Evi, Evis Delight, Evi 2, Elsanta, Selva, Figaro, Florin, Floriant, Everest, hybrids Merlan, Pikan, Roman and others have proven themselves well ...
It is not easy to grow heat-loving plants in the harsh Siberian climate, and not every strawberry variety will be able to fully develop and bear fruit in such conditions. However, there are varieties that can be grown here: they give the first harvest together with ordinary garden strawberries, and in order to wait for the second harvest, you will have to use a film to cover the beds. The best varieties for Siberia are:
In order to determine which kind of remontant strawberry is better than others, you need to be aware of what you expect from it. Some gardeners are more interested in the size of the berries, others in the taste, and still others in the ability to form a mustache, because it is desirable to be able to propagate the variety you like. We offer you a description of different varieties, and you yourself determine which one you need. So, the best remontant strawberry:
Recently, breeders have developed new varieties and hybrids of remontant strawberries that may be of interest to gardeners. For example:
Sections: Fruit and berry plants Strawberry Pink (Rosaceae) Herbaceous Plants on K Plants on P
The aerial part consists of the crown, leaves, whiskers, flowers and fruits. The crown is a compressed stem containing small branches. Long whiskers create daughter plants that fill vast spaces. The shallow root system is located at a depth of 15 cm.
Fruiting of remontant strawberries depends on the length of the day, temperature and climatic zone. The formation of flower buds begins with a day length of 12 hours or more. Bushes give 3 harvests:
The peculiarity of growing strawberries is protection from strong sun and drought. In the heat, the bushes stop bearing fruit and die. Renovated strawberries are suitable for cool, mild climates.
Before planting a seedling of this vine, you need to select a suitable site that must meet the following requirements:
for honeysuckle, you need to select a place where it will grow for many years, since this vine does not tolerate transplants well - it may suffer from a delicate root system, as a result, the plant grows worse, stops blooming, can hurt for a long time
The fragrant liana Caprifol grows well in height, reaching 5-6 m in several years. At the same time, it develops well to the sides, therefore, strong pillars as supports will be most suitable for this ornamental plant.
Honeysuckle Honeysuckle will be the best helper if you need to hide an ugly fence or separate one part of the garden from another. Also, with the help of these vines, you can braid the gazebo, make the entrance to the house beautiful, or arrange arches over the garden path.
If each of these arches is braided with plants of contrasting colors, then as a result, the area ennobled with decorative honeysuckle will look original and unusual.
The soil in the selected area should be fertile enough with a neutral or slightly alkaline reaction, it should be good for moisture and air. It is better to prepare a site for planting honeysuckle from the previous season. For autumn digging, humus, compost or other organic matter must be added. If the soil is too acidic, then chalk or lime is also added to it.
In order for sweet, fragrant berries to grow one in one all summer in the garden, it is necessary to take seriously the choice of the location of the strawberries on the site and the preparation of the planting site. It is necessary to carry out watering, pest control and weeding on time, remove dry and damaged leaves from the site.
Regular weeding and loosening of the soil between the rows are a must on strawberry beds
Strawberries are planted in the spring: from March 20 to mid-May, and in the fall in early September (until the 10th). When planted in spring, the plant develops a powerful root system during the summer and gives the first modest harvest for testing. Most often, in the spring, young seedlings grown from seeds are planted, and separated mother bushes are two years old.
In the south, they begin to plant strawberries from the first decade of March, in the middle lane from the end of March to the last decade of April. In the north, the best time for planting remontant strawberries is the third decade of May.
In autumn, planting begins from the 20th of August and ends by 10 September. In order for the bushes to take root, it is necessary to plant 3 weeks before the predicted frost. Autumn planting is suitable for propagation of strawberries with a mustache, at this time the layers have well-developed roots.
When planting remontant strawberries at any time of the year, the daytime temperature should not be lower than +15 +18 ° С, at night above +5 ° С. The beds are placed to the southeast, best of all to the south.
A plot for strawberries is chosen sunny, located on a hill
Remontant strawberry grows well on loose light soils, sandy loam or loam with the addition of fertile peat 2-3 buckets per 1 m 2 are perfect, 1.5 buckets per 1 m 2 or 2 buckets of cow dung for the same area are enough chicken droppings. Before planting, the area is cleared of weeds, roots and stones. To improve soil aeration and enrichment with useful substances, future beds are sown with green manure (phacelia, mustard, oats). This is done in the year preceding planting.
Oats are an excellent green manure of the cereal family, suitable for planting in future strawberry beds
Since autumn, to the place of the future bed, I bring in per square meter of ammonium nitrate (100 g), ash - half a bucket and superphosphate (100-120 g). And also in the process of preparing the site I add a couple of buckets of rotted manure or when planting 1-2 handfuls in each hole, soil fertility is of great importance for remontant varieties.Svetlana
It is best to plant seeds of remontant strawberries after stratification (keeping the seeds at a certain temperature to accelerate germination). They begin sowing in late January - early February, the planting time is selected so that by the time of resettlement in open ground, the plant is fully formed and strengthened. With late sowing (at the end of February), seedlings will have to be planted on the site in the summer heat. In this case, fragile young plants require shading and regular watering, that is, later planting is more troublesome.
For the first time, I planted the seeds of remontant strawberries in yogurt jars. Small and comfortable, easily fit in the hand, one could observe how barely noticeable shoots hatch. But after a month and a half, when the plants had three leaves, they had to plant the bushes, since the soil in a small container quickly dried out. Important: strawberry seedlings do not tolerate waterlogging and drought equally, this causes instant death of fragile shoots.
I had to transplant small seedlings into cut-off liter plastic bottles (10 cm deep). In this dish, the bushes calmly survived until they were relocated to the ground. But the next time I took flower pots with a volume of 1.5 and 2 liters - it seemed most convenient for watering and loosening. A week after the emergence of shoots, I fed the sprouts with baker's yeast: I took dry yeast at the tip of a knife per liter of warm water, this feeding was done regularly (every 5–7 days). Every two weeks, I watered it under the root with complex preparations: once with Aquarin, the second time with a humatized additive. The next top dressing was carried out at the end of April, already on a garden bed in the open field (with mullein tincture in water at a rate of 1: 3 with the addition of 100 g of ash per bucket of solution).
For planting, select dishes with a depth of 10 cm, filled with moist soil mixture, carefully scatter seeds over the surface
The container with seeds is first covered with cling film to create a mini-greenhouse. After the seedlings hatch, the film will only harm - in such conditions, fungi and mold rapidly develop on the soil surface. Sprouts are placed on the south window, excluding direct sunlight on the plants. Watered gently at the root or sprayed as the soil surface dries. With a thin stick or the tip of a knife, gently loosen the top layer of soil along the mini-bed to improve air exchange in the roots.
Fragile strawberry sprouts require careful handling
In caring for strawberry sprouts for the first two months, the main thing is not to harm. The most accurate watering is obtained from a syringe, it allows you to irrigate only the soil surface, it is easy to calculate the dosage of water down to drops. It is convenient to loosen it with an ordinary toothpick. Watering thin shoots too much can cause them to stick to the soil and break. Loosening is also a delicate job, if you accidentally pick up fragile and long hair roots, the plant can be pulled out of the soil.
In the phase of three to four leaves, strawberries dive, when the fifth and sixth leaves appear - the plant can be moved into open ground. Seedlings are preliminarily taken out for hardening on a balcony or veranda. This is done daily for 2-4 hours a week before placing the seedlings in a permanent place.
To get seed at home, the berries are kneaded well in warm water, after 10-15 minutes the seeds settle to the bottom of the dish. The contents are poured onto the surface of the prepared soil substrate and covered with a film for germination.
Seedlings of remontant varieties are planted in beds, the predecessors of which were green manure, root crops, melons. It is better to do this in the morning or evening hours in cloudy weather at a temperature of + 15 + 20 ° С. In adult seedlings, the roots are shortened to 7-10 cm.
When planting, make sure that the plant is not deeply buried.
When the beds are ready, I form holes in which I put 2-3 granules of the drug from the bear. It is this pest that most often does not allow plants to develop, eating up the roots and young shoots at the base of the root. Since after planting, high humidity is always maintained on strawberry beds in order for the cuttings and seedlings to take root, the bear must settle in the neighborhood. The pest prefers moist, loose soil; this is the soil that is prepared for planting strawberries.
After 2-3 weeks, the first leaf will appear from the central bud. It's time to make the first fertilizing with mineral fertilizers for seedlings (according to the instructions). The next fertilization is organized 2 weeks later, an infusion of organic matter and ash is prepared (1 kg of fresh manure, boric acid 1–2 g and half a glass of ash per 5 liters of warm water) and 250–300 g is used per one bush. The first two weeks water the seedlings in the beds every 3-4 days.
Strawberry seedlings are ready for transplanting outdoors
If the weather is hot, the beds are shaded for the first time. To do this, pieces of slate are dug in along the beds, leaving 20-30 cm above the ground. Strawberry seedlings are very sensitive to the sun, in the heat the leaves quickly turn yellow and deteriorate.Nadezhda K.
Strawberries are planted in well-lit areas, if necessary, the plant tolerates partial shade without harming the crop, provided that this happens periodically throughout the day. They try not to thicken the plantings, arrange them in one or two rows, with a solid carpet or tapeworms in decorative flower beds. But it is also convenient to grow this crop in greenhouses and greenhouses, in flower containers at home on the window. Strawberries get along well next to currants and gooseberries, onions and garlic, carrots, radishes, green peas, undersized annual flowers.
Repaired varieties bloom profusely for a long time, decorating any corner of the garden
In single-row beds 60–70 cm wide, bushes are placed at intervals of 40–50 cm. Such plantings are easy to handle from weeds, the strawberries are not thickened, so they ripen faster and rot less.
Remaining strawberries are placed on the site in a single row
But more often remontant strawberries are planted in a bush two-line method. Form two beds at a distance of 60–80 cm from each other. Strawberries are planted in a row, retreating 30–40 cm from each next bush.
Two-line method of planting strawberries simplifies weeding and watering, avoids weathering and drying out of the soil
Often, in the first year of planting, remontant strawberries capable of dropping a mustache are planted in one row. During the growing season, all whiskers that have thrown out the mother bushes are directed parallel to the bed, placing young shoots in pre-prepared holes with a nutritious substrate. This method allows you to form a second row of strawberries.
For mulching strawberry beds in the aisle in the summer, I use ordinary cardboard boxes of products (disassembled), which are disposed of by grocery stores - neatly, environmentally friendly and economically. This mulch is enough just for the summer. During the winter, the paper rots and decomposes.
Bushes of remontant varieties, due to the heavy load, age very quickly, the main harvest is obtained in the first year of fruiting, less abundant in the second year. It is necessary to take care of the repairers' planting material in advance. It is recommended to renew the beds annually, planting young offspring or divisions on the site (a bush with a developed root system divided into several parts).
By dividing the bush, mainly mustless small-fruited strawberries reproduce.
Reproduction of garden remontant strawberries with a mustache is usually straightforward. Plants are planted in the same way as young seedlings, keeping the distance between bushes and rows.
Seedlings of cuttings can be obtained by tucking them around the mother bush in the soil or dipping them into cups with prepared fertile substrate... After rooting, well-developed large bushes (of the first and second order) with 2-3 leaves are chosen and transplanted to a permanent place. For reproduction by whiskers, separate beds are often set aside, with wider row spacings - up to a meter, the distance between individual mother bushes is left 50-60 cm, making room for the whiskers.
The peculiarity of remontant strawberries with a mustache is that a large number of offspring appear in the first year of the growing season, therefore, the main breeding period for a mustache is the first year of a plant's life. During the ripening of the berries, the mustache is recommended to be torn off, the more mustache on the plant, the less abundant harvest and the smaller the berry.
During the growing season, remontants yield several times more harvest than ordinary traditional strawberry varieties, so they need fertile soil and regular organic feeding. The surface of the beds is mulched to maintain soil moisture and protect the berries from rot during fruiting. Straw, hay, sawdust, needles, as well as oilcloth and lutrasil are used as mulch.
Natural materials are considered budgetary and do not require extra financial costs
Strawberries are regularly loosened, young shoots (whiskers) must be removed if they do not need to be rooted for reproduction.
Strawberries are watered regularly, especially in hot, sunny weather. The irrigation process is carried out in the evening or in the morning, until the air warms up above +25 ° C. For irrigation, use settled water not lower than 15–20 ° C. Plants are watered at the root during the period of mass flowering and during the ripening of fruits, before and after flowering, the sprinkling method is used. The best option is drip irrigation of berry plantings.
The ideal option for irrigating strawberry beds is drip irrigation
There are many options for fertilizing strawberries:
Strawberries are fed twice before flowering and 1-2 times in the intervals between the subsequent formation of peduncles.
Before fertilizing, the bushes are loosened to a depth of 7-10 cm, then they are fed “at the root” and watered abundantly
When growing strawberries in a pot culture, you must carefully monitor the soil moisture and regularly apply top dressing. In containers, the soil dries quickly and becomes less fertile, this can be judged by the yellowness of the lower leaves, crushing of the berries and slow growth of the plant.
Fertilizers for remontant strawberries are recommended to be applied every 7-10 days, while mineral fertilizing alternates with organic matter and herbal infusions.
Closer to winter - from mid-September to early October, depending on the variety and region - the plants are prepared for wintering. At this time, watering is reduced and sanitary pruning of dry and spoiled leaves is carried out. The mustache, which appears before the first frost, is cut out and draws nutrients from the plant. In the northern regions, strawberries are covered with straw (5–10 cm layer) to protect them from freezing.
Strawberries are insulated for the winter with a layer of straw
Spring treatment of strawberry plantings with urea and spraying with Topaz (beginning to mid-March before the start of active growth) helps to fight gray rot.
To combat pests, the beds are spilled with a solution of hydrogen peroxide (10 ml per 10-liter bucket of water). And also make a solution of two glasses of ash, filled with boiling water, add 2 g of boric acid, 2 g of potassium permanganate and 1 tablespoon of iodine. The mixture is abundantly sprayed on the bushes in dry, calm weather.Evgeniya Yurievna
To get rid of slugs that spoil the harvest and damage the leaves, boards or pieces of roofing material 30 by 50 cm in size are laid along the beds.In hot weather, pests gather in the moist soil preserved under them, it is enough to collect the slugs and destroy.
If not stopped during the attack of slugs, you can lose most of the harvest.
In preparation for wintering, the beds with strawberries are loosened and the soil is treated with a solution of Karbofos (3 tablespoons per 10 liters of warm water are preliminarily insisted for 3-4 hours).
People who are attracted to the cultivation of remontant strawberries should be aware that planting and maintenance is done in a certain way.
As usual, the first step is to choose the variety you want. This can only be done by sampling the berries, so you should grow several at once, and then make the final choice.
For planting remontant strawberries, the most suitable is the soil used for growing vegetables. To prepare such soil, it is necessary to add 750 ml of water to 1 kg of land mixture, and then mix thoroughly (there should not be any lumps), then its moisture content will be 70-80%.
The next step is to fill a dense container (10-15 cm in diameter) with pre-prepared soil; about 3 cm of space should be left on top.
Strawberry seeds are scattered on top, then they should be sprinkled with dry earth and sprinkled with water from a spray bottle. To get as many sprouts as possible, the seeds must be exposed to sunlight.
The containers on top must be covered with a transparent polyethylene film and placed in a warm place. At the end of 3 weeks, the first shoots will show themselves, they require periodic watering.
It is customary to plant seedlings of remontant strawberries on loosened and fertilized beds already cleared of weeds, loosened and fertilized in early May. This is done as follows: a hole is dug in the garden bed, it is watered with water, the roots are sprinkled with a special preparation and planted in the hole. The soil near the seedlings should be well compacted.
To grow strawberries, an irrigation system must be provided: a sprinkler or drip irrigation. Strawberries are a very moisture-dependent crop, and therefore, when growing it, one should not rely on natural precipitation, since due to the lack of moisture during critical periods of growth (even for 10-15 days), the yield is significantly reduced.
During the first two weeks after planting strawberries, the soil must be kept moist for the plants to take root well. To do this, the soil should be moistened by 2-3 mm every day. For the next 2 weeks, watering is carried out, if necessary, every 2 days.
At the same time, strawberries cannot withstand excessive moisture. With waterlogging of the soil, less generative buds are formed, winter hardiness, resistance to diseases, especially gray mold and powdery mildew, decrease.
The aisles of the strawberries must be free of weeds. To do this, you can use special herbicides, but it is better to regularly carry out mechanical cultivation or manual weeding. There is an experience of covering row spacings with straw (better than wheat) or foil, but this technology requires additional costs.
The appearance and growth of pests and diseases on the plantation should be constantly monitored. Along with the use of chemicals, biological protection is becoming more and more popular, such as the use of insects - entomophages in the fight against pests, etc.
Derain is a versatile shrub. It can be planted as a single element, in a composition, in large homogeneous groups, or in combination with the yellow-tailed dogwood species, the shiny dogwood (Cornus sericea). It's great for hedges and looks great in urban greenery.
Compactly formed shrubs of low-growing varieties look good both in a small garden and in a large landscape park. The high resistance of the turf to low temperatures makes it possible to plant bushes throughout the country. The shrub does not require special frost protection for its shoots.
The shoots of the plant are red, so the bushes are a spectacular winter decoration. This color is retained only on young, maximum 2-year-old shoots. Therefore, it is recommended to regularly prune old shoots so that the bush is updated.
White turf is one of the most popular garden shrubs. Almost every part of it is decorative - red shoots, beautiful leaves, flowers and fruits, a good crown shape. The shrub is hardy, undemanding - not afraid of severe frosts, withstands drought, urban conditions.
Even a novice agronomist can take care of curly strawberries. Do not believe the myths about the impossibility of growing this culture in your apartment or summer cottage.
Curly repairing strawberries: care and planting
Curly strawberries are not only tasty and aromatic, but also a beautiful and very healthy berry. It will not be difficult to grow it even for a novice gardener, it is enough to familiarize yourself with the rules for planting and leaving it, and then constantly follow them.