Temperature for indoor plants


How the plant feels, grows and develops, directly depends on air temperature... Indoor plants, or rather, most of them come from the subtropics or tropics. In other latitudes, they have to be grown in greenhouses, where the necessary microclimate is created for them. However, this does not mean at all that absolutely all houseplants need high air temperatures.

There are very few indoor flowers that can grow and develop normally if a high temperature is constantly maintained in the room where they are located (more than 24 degrees). This circumstance is due to the fact that the conditions of our latitudes are very different from those in their homeland. So, the air humidity here is quite low, the duration of daylight hours is much shorter. The lighting is also less intense. In this regard, in order to create comfortable conditions for such plants, the temperature in the room should also differ from that which is considered the norm in their homeland, and should be much lower.

Features of air temperature for indoor plants

The effect of temperature on the plant

To measure the temperature regime, the amount of heat is determined, as well as the period of time during which this or that temperature was maintained. Household plants have a certain temperature range - the maximum and minimum temperatures within which the flower feels good and develops normally.

In the case when the room temperature is sufficiently low, the vegetation under these conditions slows down both biochemical and physiological processes, or rather, the intensity of respiration, photosynthesis decreases, and the production and distribution of organic matter decreases. If the temperature is above normal, then these processes, on the contrary, are accelerated.

What should be the TEMPERATURE for INDOOR PLANTS

Features of temperature fluctuations (natural)

During the day, there is a rhythmic change in temperature - it rises during the day and decreases at night. Also, this change occurs throughout the year and this is due to the seasons, smoothly replacing each other. And plants necessarily adapt to this process taking place where they grow in their natural environment. Plants of temperate latitudes calmly tolerate sharp fluctuations in temperature, and those in the tropics do not tolerate them quite well. For most of the "inhabitants" of temperate latitudes, the time when cold weather sets in is marked by the beginning of a period of dormancy. It is extremely important for them, since this period can have the most positive effect on their intensive growth and development in the future.

In a wide temperature range, when the temperature difference between day and night, summer and winter is large enough, plants such as aloe, sansevier, ficus, clivia, and also aspidistr feel great.

It is important to remember that at night the temperature must necessarily be a couple of degrees lower than during the day.

What is the optimal temperature

In order for decorative deciduous and flowering plants, which include begonias, mulberries, aroids, bromeliads and others, to grow and develop within normal limits, an air temperature of 20 to 25 degrees is needed. 18–20 degrees must be provided to plants belonging to the genus Coleus, Peperomia, Sanchetia, etc. And for those whose homeland is the subtropics (Fatsia, Aucuba, Zebrina, ivy, Tetrastigma, etc.), a temperature of 15 –18 degrees.

Variegated plants inhabitants of the tropics are the most thermophilic and these include codieum, cordilina, caladium and others.

Winter temperature and dormant period

There are plants for which coolness is simply necessary in winter. This is because they begin a dormant period or slow down their growth. So, a temperature of 10-15 degrees is necessary in winter for primrose, pelargonium, hydrangea, and also cyclamen. And at 5-8 degrees, rhododendron and eucalyptus just feel great.

In order for asparagus Sprenger, anthurium Scherzer and spathiphylyum Wallis to bloom more abundantly and actively, they are placed in a room with a temperature of no more than 15-18 degrees in the autumn (dormant period). From the beginning of January, the temperature should be higher in the range of 20-22 degrees.

If the plant does not have flowering, then this is most likely due to disturbances in their life rhythm, or rather, the dormant period.

For example, if in winter the cacti are provided with regular watering and a moderate temperature regime, then they will have ugly growths, and they will also not bloom. And in hippeastrum buds cease to form, and their owners will only have to admire the lush foliage.

Soil temperature

As a rule, the soil in a flower pot has a temperature that is a couple of degrees different from the indoor air. In winter, it is very important to provide for the hypothermia of the root system. For this it is necessary to take a number of measures. First, the pot should never stand very close to the glass. Secondly, put a mat made of wood, cardboard, cork or foam under the pot. If hypothermia occurs, then the root system will absorb moisture from the soil much worse, which can contribute to the appearance of rot.

So, dieffenbachia feels great when the soil temperature is 24-27 degrees. Experienced flower growers advise filling pallets of flowers such as ficus, gardenia and eucharis with warm water, because they simply adore warm soil.

Features of the attitude to heat of some groups of plants

Plants that are dormant at 5-8 degrees

These plants need a lower temperature in the autumn-winter period and rest: laurel, fatsia, succulent, rhododendron, chlorophytum and others.

Heat-loving plants (20 to 25 degrees)

This group includes: dieffenbachia, codieum, caladium, dizigoteka, aglaonema, calathea, orchid, syngonium, akalifa and others.

Plants requiring moderate heat (17 to 20 degrees)

This group includes clerodendron, waxy ivy, siningia, Liviston palm, aphelandra, rheo, anthurium, saintpaulia, pandanus, monstera, coconut palm, ginura, pilea and others.

Plants in need of coolness (from 10 to 16 degrees)

These include: azalea, oleander, pelargonium, aspidistra, ficuses, tradescantia, roses, fuchsia, primroses, aucuba, saxifrage, ivy, cyperus, chlorophytum, araucaria, asparagus, dracaena, begonia, balsam, bromeliad, colus , sheflera, philodendron, hoya, peperomia, spathiphylyum and others.

Temperature for growing indoor plants.

Consequences of violation of the thermal regime

Sudden changes in temperature

Plants have an extremely negative attitude to a sharp decrease in temperature, all the more, more than 6 degrees. So, for example, in Dieffenbachia spotted leaves turn yellow and wither if the temperature drops by 10 degrees. The growth of golden scindapsus stops when the temperature drops by 15 degrees.

Due to strong temperature changes, the foliage of indoor plants begins to turn yellow and fall off. In this regard, when airing the room in winter, it is imperative to rearrange the flowers away from the window.

Temperature below normal

If the temperature is below normal, then the flowering of the plant will not come for a long time, or underdeveloped buds may form. The foliage becomes much darker, curls up and begins to fall off. However, succulents and cacti tolerate low temperatures quite well.

Do not forget that in the autumn-winter period on the windowsill the temperature will differ from room temperature downwards by 1–5 degrees.

Temperature above normal

If it is very hot indoors in winter, it will have an extremely negative effect on tropical plants. And even more so if it is hotter at night than during the day. Thus, plants, when breathing at night, consume a very large amount of nutrients accumulated in the daytime due to photosynthesis. As a result, the plant will be depleted, its shoots will elongate and become very long, old leaves will dry out and die off, and new ones will be much smaller. The leaves below, like the flowers, will begin to fade, and their edges will acquire a darker color.

Draft

More than one plant will not grow and develop normally in the presence of a draft. This should be taken into account when choosing a place for them. However, there are some plants for which the draft does not cause concern, but there are very few of them (for example, oleander).

Conclusion: almost all indoor plants need to provide a moderate air temperature, taking into account the requirements of various types. And also during the rest period (if they have one), they need a fairly cool temperature.


Notes and Recommendations

Every novice florist, sooner or later, will have to face this scourge, called aphid. There are practically no exceptions. Therefore, one must be ready to repel the attacks of this aggressor.

Basically, we will deal with room aphids (although this concept is conditional, aphids in the garden are the same). Just as practice has shown, flower growers dealing with indoor plants are less prepared to fight this scourge, naively believing that this is a garden pest. Alas, aphids on indoor plants are quite a frequent visitor. Its invasion is especially intense in spring and early summer.


Preparing for winter

Caring for indoor flowers in winter means not so much stimulating plants to actively bloom and growth, but rather making every effort to preserve their basic functions for the next season. Therefore, the first thing that needs to be provided for flowers that are preparing for the onset of cold weather is careful care.

For example, with the arrival of real autumn, the air temperature decreases noticeably, and this affects the plants themselves growing in your house: their soil temperature decreases, and the flowers gradually come to a state of dormancy, doing everything in order to maintain strength for the next vegetative period ... Do not try to delay this process, otherwise the result may turn out to be exactly the opposite: the plants in the spring simply will not be able to bloom on time. If we are talking about decorative deciduous specimens, for which flowering is not typical, they may look different, without much brightness and liveliness of shades. Therefore, your main task is to provide indoor flowers with absolute peace.

Plants in the room should definitely be rid of various insects and fungal parasites. To do this, use store-bought insecticides and fungicides, or give preference to folk methods, the main thing is to achieve tangible results.

At the same time, in the process of treating indoor flowers, pay special attention to the lower sides of the leaves: often the invasion of parasites begins from here, and the growers do not notice the presence of a threat in the early stages. Insectoacaricidal formulations will help against sucking pests, however, they are usually considered potent, so they must be used very carefully. In addition, let's say the degree of damage is still low. In this case, treat the houseplants with soapy water. Mix 5 g of grated laundry soap or a small amount of kitchen detergent with 1 L of water. Thoroughly rinse the leaves, shoots and stems of the flower with the resulting solution to ensure the death of pests. If this method is unsuccessful, use pesticides.

When the procedures for removing insects and other parasites are completed, it's time to start directly preparing domestic plants for wintering. First of all, gradually reduce the amount of fertilizer recharge, as well as the amount of watering. Create enough space for indoor flowers to allow air to circulate freely between them. If they are on windowsills, find out if the temperature is too low. If necessary, it is recommended to insulate the window sills. There is also an alternative, less laborious: place small thermo mats or a layer of foam plastic under each flower pot. Thus, you will provide heat to the substrate, which will only improve the wintering conditions for flowers. In addition, it is worth thinking about suitable flowerpots for plants: if the ceramics release heat quickly enough, then the plastic retains it, and this is what you need to achieve at home.


Application

A root growth stimulator is not a fertilizer, not a means of protecting against diseases and pests. He has his own, special action and, accordingly, his indications for use.

When and why to use Kornevin:

  • when cutting fruit, berry crops, ornamental shrubs
  • when planting seedlings of vegetables and flowers
  • for grafts (improves survival rate)
  • for indoor plants (reproduction, salvation of a valuable specimen)
  • to increase the yield of garden and vegetable garden crops (excluding root crops, potatoes).
  • when preparing plants for wintering.

When using the product, be sure to follow the instructions, the proportions of the drug, and safety rules.


Freezing also helps soften the irrigation water. At the moment of freezing and defrosting, it is purified from negative particles.

Preparing melt water is simple:

  • fill a bottle with plain water
  • place in the freezer for 10-12 hours
  • when it freezes by 3/4 part, drain the remaining liquid water (an antifreeze "brine" containing salts remains inside)
  • let the water thaw and warm to room temperature
  • you can start watering.


How to organize lighting correctly

For a full-fledged supplementary lighting of plants, it is not enough to purchase a lamp, it still needs to be installed correctly.

In this case, it is important to adhere to the following recommendations:

  1. The minimum distance between the plant and the light source should be 25 cm.If the device is low-power, it is allowed to reduce this figure to 20 cm.
  2. Installing mirror screens at the edges of the window sill or box will help direct the maximum amount of light to the plants.
  3. The rays should fall strictly from top to bottom. If the light comes from the side, then the plant perceives this as the approach of night, and, therefore, the processes of photosynthesis begin to slow down.
  4. As the plants grow, the lamp should be set higher. But it's important to remember. That at too great a distance, the efficiency of the device decreases.

If the lighting is organized exclusively with the help of lamps, then they must remain on for 12 hours. Seeds that have just hatched can be left to light for 24 hours. In the presence of natural light, this period can be reduced to 6 hours. You need to turn on the lamps 2 hours before dawn, and turn them off 2 hours after dark.

For large greenhouses and greenhouses, the simultaneous use of different types of luminaires is recommended. This will ensure that all plants receive the required amount of light.

Fitolampa is a necessary equipment for growing strong, healthy seedlings and indoor plants. If desired, you can make it yourself from separately purchased LEDs. But it is much easier and more efficient to purchase a ready-made device. It is enough to choose the right power and place it correctly over the flowers.


Watch the video: 3 Plant Mistakes to Avoid in Winter! Prepare Houseplants for Winter.


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