Plant sweet peas (lat.Lathyrus odoratus) belongs to the genus Chin of the Legume family. The scientific name of the plant consists of two words, the first of which is translated as "very attractive" and the second as "fragrant". Some botanists claim that this flowering herb is native to the Eastern Mediterranean - its range extends from Sicily eastward to Crete. Other scientists believe that sweet peas were brought to Sicily by conquistadors from Ecuador and Peru.
The plant has been cultivated in culture since the 18th century: in 1699, walking under the walls of the monastery, the Sicilian monk Francisco Kupani discovered a flower with an unusually pleasant smell, collected seeds from it and sent them to England to his friend, a school teacher. And in England, thanks to the work of breeders, sweet peas eventually became the king of ampels. The first five varieties of the plant appeared in 1800.
Today there are over 1000 varieties of sweet peas. Gardeners are attracted by bright flowers and a pleasant smell, from which the plant got its name. Sweet peas are most often used for vertical gardening of gazebos, balconies and terraces. Perennial sweet peas in the middle lane are usually grown in annual crops
Read more about growing sweet peas below.
The sweet pea flower, or the fragrant rank, was described by Karl Linnaeus in 1753. The root system of the plant is highly branched, pivotal, penetrating into the soil to a depth of one and a half meters. Like most legumes, sweet peas enter into symbiosis with nodule bacteria that assimilate nitrogen from the air. The stalks of the rank are climbing, weakly branched, they climb along the support, clinging to it with modified leaves - branched antennae. Sweet pea flowers resemble moths, but the British think they are like a boat under sail: the corolla consists of a large petal, like a broad-oval sail, two side petals ("oars") and two fused lower petals, forming a "boat". The flowering of sweet peas is abundant. It begins in July and, with proper care, continues until frost. Sweet pea fruits are small bivalve beans with 5-8 spherical, laterally compressed seeds of yellow, greenish or black-brown color, retaining germination from 6 to 8 years.
The cultivation of sweet peas begins with sowing seedlings in mid-March. Before sowing, tug-like seeds of sweet peas should be soaked in water for 10-12 hours or held in a fifty-degree solution of the Bud preparation (1-2 g per 1 liter of water). Then within 2-4 days they are germinated in gauze, wet sand or sawdust at a temperature of 20-24 ºC. As soon as the seeds of the sweet pea bite, they must be sown immediately.
Shop soils Saintpaulia, Rose or a mixture of humus, peat and turf in a ratio of 2: 2: 2: 1 are best suited as a substrate. Any of these substrates must be disinfected with a strong solution of potassium permanganate, and it is better to use cups or pots as dishes for growing seedlings. Sowing is carried out in a moist substrate to a depth of no more than 2-3 cm, laying out 2-3 seeds in each cup. If you sow peas in a common box, then the distance between the seeds should be about 8 cm. After sowing, the substrate is watered, the containers are covered with foil and kept on a sunny windowsill at a temperature of 18-22 ºC.
When the mass germination of seeds begins, and this can happen in a week or two, you need to remove the film from the crops and lower the temperature to 15-16 ºC - this measure contributes to the formation of nitrogen-fixing nodules on the roots of the seedlings. Keep the substrate in a slightly damp state at all times and provide the seedlings with good lighting: if you do not have the opportunity to keep the seedlings in the south window, arrange artificial light for it for 2-3 hours daily. To do this, you can use a phytolamp or a fluorescent lamp, fixing them at a height of 25 cm above the seedlings and turning them on, for example, from 7 to 10 or from 17 to 20 hours.
In the development phase of 2-3 true leaves, the seedlings are pinched to stimulate the development of lateral shoots. After pinching, the seedlings are fed with a solution of 2 g of Kemira in 1 liter of water.
In open ground, sweet peas are planted from seeds towards the end of May, when the soil warms up and the threat of recurrent frosts has passed. If by that time buds or flowers have already formed on the seedlings, cut them off so that all the energy of the plants is directed to the formation of the root system. 10 days before planting the seedlings, it is necessary to carry out hardening procedures with it. To do this, containers with seedlings are daily taken out into the open air, gradually increasing the duration of stay until the seedlings of sweet peas can be outside for a whole day.
Sweet peas love light, warm areas and moist, well-drained, fertilized soil with an acidity of pH 7.0-7.5. Before planting seedlings, dig up the area to the depth of a shovel bayonet with compost or humus, phosphorus and potassium fertilizers. Do not use fresh manure as fertilizer, as it provokes fusarium wilting, and do not apply nitrogen fertilizers: sweet peas do not need them.
Make holes in a row at a distance of 20-25 cm from each other and plant 2-3 plants in each. For tall varieties of sweet peas, the supports must be installed immediately. Keep in mind that annual sweet peas must be disposed of in the fall, and it will be possible to re-plant the plant in this area only after 4-5 years.
Planting and caring for sweet peas is not laborious. How to grow sweet peas? He needs watering, weeding, loosening the soil, support, feeding and protection from diseases and pests. Watering should be regular and sufficient, because due to a lack of moisture, buds and flowers can fall off the plant, and the flowering time can be greatly reduced. If the summer is without rain, sweet peas should be watered weekly, spending 30-35 liters of water per m² of planting. You can prolong flowering by removing wilted flowers in time.
Tall varieties of sweet peas need to be tied to supports, which are used as twine or net. As the peas grow, their stems are directed in the right direction and tied up.
In order to stimulate the development of adventitious roots, it is necessary to hilling plants to a height of 5-7 cm with a sprinkling to the base of the stem of a fertile substrate.
As for dressings, they are optional, but desirable. At the beginning of growth, sweet peas are fertilized with a solution of 1 tablespoon of Nitrofoski and 1 tablespoon of urea in 10 liters of water. At the beginning of flowering, a solution of a tablespoon of Agricola and the same amount of potassium sulfate in 10 liters of water is used for feeding, and at the height of flowering, sweet peas are fertilized with Agricola for flowering plants and Rossa, dissolving one tablespoon of fertilizers in a bucket of water.
Sweet peas do not need trimming.
Of the pests for sweet peas, the nodule weevil and various types of aphids are dangerous. At the beginning of the growing season, the weevil gnaws semicircles at the edges of the leaves, and its larvae eat the roots of the plant. As a prophylaxis against a pest, when planting seedlings, pour 100 ml of a 0.1% solution of Chlorophos into each well. The plants themselves should be sprayed with the same solution.
Of all types of aphids, bean, chin and pea can encroach on sweet peas. These tiny pests suck out juices from plants, deforming their organs, and infecting them with viral diseases. In order to destroy aphids, as well as to prevent sweet peas during the growing season, they are treated with Tsineb or Tsiram preparations 2-3 times with a break between sessions of 2-3 weeks.
Of the diseases, sweet peas can be affected by ascochitis, powdery mildew, peronosporosis, fusarium, root rot, black leg, viral mosaic and deforming viral mosaic of peas.
With ascochitis, brown spots with clear boundaries appear on the leaves, beans and stems of peas. You can fight the infection with two or three treatments of the rank with an interval of 2-3 weeks with a solution of the Rogor drug.
Powdery mildew and downy mildew (downy mildew) appear in the second half of summer as a loose whitish bloom on the leaves and stems of plants. Over time, the leaves turn yellow, turn brown and fall off. They destroy the causative agents of the disease with a 5% solution of colloidal sulfur, washing the leaves with them.
Signs of fusarium are yellowing and withering pea leaves. Diseased plants do not respond to treatment, they must be removed, and healthy plants must be treated with a solution of the TMDT drug. As a preventive measure, crop rotation should be observed on the site.
From the black leg and root rot of the sweet pea, the root collar and roots darken, and the plant dies. Infected specimens cannot be saved, they must be removed, and healthy ones must be transplanted to another place, having disinfected the soil and plant roots beforehand.
The viral mosaic is manifested by a line pattern on the leaves, and the tops of diseased shoots are twisted and deformed. Plants that have fallen ill with any of the viral diseases must be removed and burned, since they cannot be cured.
There are more than 1000 varieties of sweet peas. All of them are divided into 10 garden groups, of which the following are most often grown:
Plants with strong stems and flowers with a double sails, collected in inflorescences of 4-5 pieces. One of the best varieties of the group:
Created in 1959, a group of late-flowering varieties more than 2 m in height with strong inflorescences from 30 to 50 cm long with 5-8 corrugated, often double flowers up to 5 cm in diameter. These plants are recommended for landscaping and for cutting. The best varieties:
Created by the Americans in 1963, a group of semi-dwarf late varieties up to 45 cm high with strong inflorescences up to 30 cm long, consisting of 4-5 corrugated flowers up to 4 cm in diameter. These plants can be grown without supports, they are recommended for borders and ridges;
which includes vigorous multi-stem plants up to 2 m high with racemose inflorescences consisting of 3-4 simple or double corrugated flowers up to 5 cm in diameter with wavy petals. The group is represented by varieties of medium flowering time and is recommended for gardening and cutting. The best varieties of the group:
In addition to those described, varieties of the Spencer Monty group, Mahogany, Flagship, King Lavender, Ayer Warden, Garnet and others are popular;
Created by the Americans in 1910, a group of early varieties 120-150 cm high with inflorescences up to 35 cm long, consisting of 3-4 corrugated flowers up to 4.5 cm in diameter. The varieties are recommended for landscaping and for cutting;
Created back in 1895, a group of low-growing varieties up to 30 cm high with inflorescences up to 7 cm long, consisting of 2-3 medium-sized flowers of various colors. These varieties are recommended for landscaping;
A group of varieties created in 1952 in America. These are tall plants up to 2 m in height with strong inflorescences up to 40 cm long, consisting of 5-6 large corrugated flowers up to 5 cm in diameter. These varieties of early ripening are recommended for cutting. The best ones include:
In addition to those described, such varieties of the group as Zhelanny, Peggy, Robert Blen, William and others are widely known;
This group of heat-resistant varieties was created in 1964. They are an improved variant of the Cuthbertson-Floribunda group. Inflorescences up to 30 cm long consist of large double flowers of various colors, depending on the variety. The disadvantage of these plants is their increased sensitivity to the length of daylight hours, so they are not grown in winter. The varieties of this group are recommended for gardening and for cutting;
This group of early varieties up to 2.5 m high was created in 1960 by American breeders. The plants have strong inflorescences from 35 to 50 cm long, consisting of 5-12 corrugated flowers with a diameter of about 5 cm. The varieties are recommended for landscaping and for cutting;
A group of vigorous plants with 6-10 large flowers in one inflorescence. Peduncles are long and strong, the sail is wavy. The best varieties of the group:
A group of early undersized varieties bred in 1991 by Russian breeders that filled the niche between the varieties of the Cupido and Bijou groups. The plants of this group are from 35 to 65 cm high, so they can be grown without supports. Inflorescences up to 20 cm long consist of 3-4 simple flowers up to 3 cm in diameter. The best variety:
Bred in the same year, intermediate between Bijou and Multiflora Gigantea, a group of varieties from 65 to 100 cm high with strong inflorescences up to 30 cm long, each of which consists of 7-12 corrugated flowers up to 4.5 cm in diameter. Popular varieties of the group:
In the 70s of the XX century, groups of English varieties Jet Set and German Lizers Keningspiel were created. At present, the selection work on sweet peas continues.
Sections: Garden plants Perennials Herbaceous Flowering Annuals Plants on D Legumes (Moths)
Lathyrus Odoratus belongs to the genus of the large legume family. This is a herbaceous climbing plant with small, but graceful and abundant, collected in a brush, flowers, which many growers compare in shape to a reduced copy of an orchid. The color of flowers can be varied: from pale blue to deep blue and purple and from white and pale pink to red and burgundy.
Sweet peas are able to decorate any area
For your information! Currently, bicolor varieties have also been developed, which are becoming more and more popular.
Pea is a perennial, although in certain climatic conditions this fragrant flower is grown as an annual. In addition, thanks to the painstaking work of breeders, many annual varieties have appeared, which are presented in a more diverse range of colors.
Fragrant peas begin to bloom in late June - early July, but the duration of their flowering depends on how they are taken care of. If you follow some simple rules, the plant will delight you with numerous flowers until the very frost.
Currently, bicolor pea varieties have been developed
The stems of the peas (ranks) are ribbed, the leaves are complex pinnate of a bright green color. At the ends of the leaves are antennae, thanks to which the plant can curl, clinging to the support. The height of this fragrant plant depends on what variety it is, and can vary from 15-20 cm to 2-2.5 m. The fruits of the ranch are pubescent, not very long beans with several seeds.
It is believed that the birthplace of sweet peas is Sicily. It was from there that he was brought first to India, and only then to Europe. Today, ornamental peas as a garden plant are especially revered in England, where even whole communities of its lovers have been created. Long-term sweet peas have become a kind of symbol of garden design here.
Important! Sweet pea seeds are poisonous, so it is better to keep them away from children and animals.
This ampelous plant perfectly tolerates frosts down to -7 degrees. In the month of May, sweet pea sprouts are planted in open ground in sunny areas along with peat pots for further cultivation. Since the plant prefers lighted places, but does not like heat, a planting site is chosen with possible isolation from direct sunlight. The distance between the senses must be kept no more than 12 cm.
Sweet peas prefers blind places with fertile, loose and slightly acidic soil. Many gardeners provide the plant with support when it reaches a height of more than 25 cm. For this, special frames with twine are ideal, to which the climbing peas are tied in several places. As it grows, it itself will twine around the frame, striving upward to the sun. If you have dwarf sweet peas, support is unnecessary.
To obtain an intense, lush and beautiful flowering, the plant must be watered every 10 days. During rains, this gap is increased. With insufficient watering, pea flowers become small and unsightly, and in very advanced cases, they wither and die off. Curly sweet peas need to be supplemented with liquid feed. The first time the plant is fertilized 7 days after planting in an open area, the second feeding is carried out at the beginning of flowering, and the third - during abundant flowering.
To ensure a longer flowering of sweet peas, experienced gardeners carry out pinching and remove faded twigs and dead leaves. These little tricks will allow the plant to delight you with its abundant, fragrant and colorful flowering until mid-autumn.
Sweet peas are very beautiful and easy to care for. It is in great demand, both among experienced gardeners and amateurs. With proper care and planting, peas will decorate the countryside landscape with their appearance, delighting you and your guests.
Read other interesting rubrics
If you observe certain rules for planting sweet peas and caring for him, even a novice gardener can easily turn his personal plot into a real paradise.
These curly vines, despite the small size of the inflorescence, are striking in the incredibly bright color of the petals. In addition, the flower has a pleasant aroma. This is what makes it so popular among summer residents.
Consider how to grow sweet peas and how to care for the plantings.
Sweet peas can be successfully grown literally in any climatic zone of our country. But in order for the plant to delight you with the abundance of flowers on the stems and its rapid growth, it is important to know exactly when to start planting work.
It doesn't matter if you use seedlings or plant seeds outdoors if you live in the south.
In areas where winters are very cold, planting with seeds can also be done in February. But you need to do this indoors. This will prepare the seedlings for the beginning of the summer cottage when all the snow has melted from the soil. To enjoy beautiful flowers at the beginning of summer, do not delay the transplantation of seedlings.
These are the basic rules for choosing a method for planting sweet peas. In addition, when choosing a plant variety, pay attention to the conditions for its cultivation - how it tolerates the cold, is it whimsical to care for, what kind of soil it likes. This will allow you to create optimal conditions for sweet peas to grow according to the specific climate.
Take a look at the seeds of any sweet pea variety and you will notice that their shell is very dense. It is because of this that the seeds germinate "uncommonly" and for a long time. For their faster emergence, it is better to prepare the material in advance.
This can be done in 2 ways:
Use a small knife to cut the surface of each seed (nail scissors can be used).
Soak the seeds in hot water (80 ° C) overnight (or at least 2 hours). After that, they need to germinate in a damp cloth (at 20-24? C). Once the seeds have sprouted, they are ready to be planted. For germination, select only those seeds that have swollen after soaking. Seed material that has not changed in size is unlikely to germinate in the future.
Sweet peas grow well in fertile, non-acidic, well-drained soil. If the land on your site is exactly that, then no special additional measures will be required. Just work the flower bed to a depth of 15 cm and fertilize it with compost or manure.
Is the soil too clayey and too heavy? Then its additional processing will not be superfluous.
Consider adding another layer of compost for better drainage. This will improve the absorption of nutrients from the soil by the plant. And to check how well the area is draining, watch it when it rains. If the puddles do not dry out for a long time, then the soil in these places is not drained. Does the water go away right away? No additional measures are required - this is the best place for future seedlings.
For planting, use slightly raised beds. These beds can also be useful for growing other garden plants.
The use of seed material in the cultivation of sweet peas is considered by gardeners to be a better method than planting seedlings, since the whole process is much simpler.
Once you've germinated your seeds, it's time to start planting your plant outdoors. To do this, dig small holes (depth - 3 cm) in the soil prepared in advance. The distance between the holes is 8 cm. Place the germinated seeds in these holes - 3 pieces in each.
In the future, when the vine begins to grow, the beds can be thinned out by increasing the distance between the holes - from 8 cm to 14 cm from each other. This gives the plants more room to grow.
And why use seedlings at all if planting with seeds is much easier to carry out? Firstly, growing seedlings will ensure faster flowering of the plant, and secondly, if desired save the variety and collect seeds from future plantings, only this method is suitable.
To prepare seedlings you will need:
containers (trays, boxes, or regular pots),
The seeds are planted in the ground to a depth of 3 cm (2-3 pieces in each hole) and at a distance of no more than 14 cm from each other. The distance does not matter if you use separate pots. Growing seedlings should be accompanied by maintaining a constant temperature - at least 20 C. For this, it is better to cover the trays with foil or place them where there is sunlight (greenhouse, balcony).
Compliance with these conditions will be required until the seedlings give the first shoots. Now, so that the shoots do not stretch up much, the trays need to be moved to a cooler place.
The seedlings are transferred to their permanent "place of residence" in mid-May. The distance between plantings is 20-25 cm. The depth of the holes will depend on the size of the plant's root system.
Despite the fact that sweet peas are unpretentious in maintenance and resistant to weather changes, plantings must be looked after so that the stems stretch up and bloom profusely. What important rules must be followed when caring for the plantings of sweet peas, regardless of the variety chosen?
Watering... The soil under the plant should be well moistened throughout its flowering period. Therefore, if there is no rain, lightly water the plantings every day. But if your goal is to collect seeds from an adult plant, it is worth watering the vine much less often (even in too hot summer).
Top dressing... Many gardeners agree that it is not necessary to fertilize sweet peas at all. In fact, it is. But by carrying out additional fertilizing of the soil, you can achieve good results - the plant will bloom longer and more abundantly.
During the flowering period, planting is fertilized at least 2 times - a couple of weeks after planting (manure mixed with phosphorus and potassium fertilizers) and just before flowering (nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium fertilizer).
Under sweet peas, it is forbidden to make top dressing containing chlorine in its composition - this negatively affects the quality of the inflorescences. Also, don't overdo it with nitrogenous fertilizers.
Weeding... During the growth period of sweet peas, the soil under it is loosened and weeds are removed at least 5 times.
Pruning inflorescences... If you cut off the inflorescences that have already set up green beans in a timely manner, you will prolong the life of the sweet pea - it will bloom until the very frost. Therefore, harvest fragrant flowers regularly. But only cut the flowers when they are fully ripe. Also remove flowers that have already bloomed. They do not benefit the plant, but only take all the energy from it.
Garter... Sweet pea liana grows very quickly, so support is extremely necessary for it.
Diseases and pests... Sweet peas are not too susceptible to diseases and pests. But you still need to be afraid of something: root rot, powdery mildew, black leg, gray mold, aphids, spider mites.
Sweet pea is an annual plant. By itself, it will not return to your garden next summer - you need to harvest its seeds. To do this, save the seed pods of the plant until the next season, so that in the next season you can enjoy the pleasant aroma and admire the beautiful flowers.
Sweet peas are widely used in landscape design: they are used to decorate gazebos, fences, arches. The flower is grown as an annual and perennial plant. It can be planted as seeds in open ground or as seedlings. If you plant sweet peas with seedlings, then flowering will come faster. Seed planting is carried out in May.
Sweet pea seeds
After planting, the container is placed in a warm, bright place and the plant is provided with regular watering - once a week. If the room temperature is not warm enough, and for faster germination of seeds, containers can be covered with cling film or glass.
After two weeks, the first shoots will appear. After the growth of three true leaves, the top of the plants is pinched, which will contribute to the active growth of lateral shoots. In the second half of May, when the plants grow up to 10 centimeters, they are planted in open ground, leaving a distance of at least 20 centimeters between them. Planting depth depends on the development of the root system.When transplanting seedlings, you need to remove them from the container along with a lump of earth so as not to damage the roots.
About the seed material of Russian "producers", I even say it is disgusting to say that even the seeds of Western firms often do not correspond to those indicated on the packaging, and this clearly indicates that they were packed in our country, putting them in a bag, whatever they got. Every year I acquire up to 10 new varieties of peas, but only 1-2 samples, and even then, at best, turn out to be appropriate for the variety and fully viable. All the rest are rubbish.
It is for this reason that I insist that sweet pea seeds you need to get yourself, which is quite realistic: the spatial isolation for obtaining pure-grade material for these plants is small and limited by a distance of 3-5 m, and the germination retention period when stored in a household refrigerator is significant - at least 3-5 years.
Sweet pea 'Anniversary' (left) and 'Madame Butterfly' (right)
However, there is also a small problem here: as a rule, the most luxurious varieties set seeds very poorly or do not want to do it at all. I worked out barbaric but trouble-free method of obtaining seeds: I plant the plants not in the ground, but in large containers, which I expose in the hottest and driest places in the garden. Such Spartan conditions do not allow plants to grow freely and bloom luxuriously, but force them to form seeds for procreation.
Sweet pea is a plant belonging to the genus Chin, the legume family. It can be annual and perennial. It is unassuming to fit and care for. Perennial grades of rank have a faint pleasant smell and can grow in one place for up to 10 years. Sweet pea has angular stems and pink or purple flowers that are clustered in inflorescences.
The sweet pea flower has a highly branched root system that can penetrate into the soil to a depth of 1.5 m. The plant, like most legumes, can enter into symbiosis with nodule bacteria that assimilate nitrogen from the air. Pea stems are climbing and weakly branched, capable of climbing a support with the help of modified leaves - branched antennae.
The plant begins to bloom in July, and it lasts, with proper care, until the very frost. The shape of the flowers resembles exotic colored butterflies. Pea fruits are small bivalve beans with spherical seeds of greenish, yellow or black-brown color.
Sweet pea flower varieties are:
Tall varieties (up to 3 m) include specimens that have large bright flower stalks that can reach a length of 30 cm. They are used both for cutting and for vertical gardening. These include:
Medium-sized varieties (up to 1 m):
Low-growing varieties (up to 60 cm):
Like other plants cultivated in front gardens, it is advisable to plant sweet peas in seedlings. Climate plays an important role. If the soil does not freeze in the region, then the seeds can be planted directly into the ground.
Severe frosts can destroy young shoots, so they use the seedling method.
Growing a flower from seed begins with the fact that it is sown for seedlings in mid-March. Since pea seeds germinate very difficult, they are soaked in water for 10-12 hours or kept in a 50-degree solution of the Bud preparation. Then for 2-4 days they should be germinated in wet sand or gauze. When the seeds are baked, they must be planted immediately.
Store soil for roses and Saintpaulias is used as a substrate, or they make a soil mixture on their own. To do this, take sod land, peat and humus in a ratio of 1: 2: 2. These components must be disinfected with a strong solution of potassium permanganate.
Sowing is carried out in moist soil to a depth of 2-3 cm, planting 2-3 seeds in each cup. If a common container is used for seedlings, then the distance between the seeds should be 8 cm. After sowing, the soil is watered, the pot or box is covered with foil and placed on a sunny windowsill at a temperature of 18-22 degrees.
When, after a week or two, the seeds begin to grow actively, the film is removed from the container and taken to a room with a temperature of 15-16 degrees. The substrate should always be kept slightly damp and the seedlings should be provided with good lighting. If it is not possible to grow seedlings on the southern window, then artificial lighting is organized for it for 2-3 hours daily, using a fluorescent lamp or phytolamp.
When the seedlings have 2-3 true leaves, they pinch it. This stimulates the development of side shoots. After the procedure, the seedlings are fed with Kemira's solution.
Seedlings are planted in open ground at the end of spring. At this time, the soil is already warming up well and there is no threat of frost return. If the seedlings have already formed buds or flowers, then they need to be cut off so that the plant directs its energy to the formation of the root system. Hardening procedures are carried out 10 days before planting the seedlings. To do this, the pot with seedlings is taken out into the open air every day and the duration of stay is gradually increased until the seedlings can be outside for a whole day.
Sweet peas prefer bright, warm places and moist, drained soil enriched with fertilizers. Before planting, the site is dug to the depth of a shovel bayonet with humus, compost, potash and phosphorus fertilizers. Fresh manure should not be used because it promotes fusarium wilting.
To plant seedlings, holes are made at a distance of 20-25 cm from each other and 2-3 plants are planted in each. If the variety is tall, then you must immediately install the supports. You need to know that in the fall, annual sweet peas are disposed of and it will be possible to plant them again in this area only after 4–5 years.
Caring for sweet peas is not a very laborious process. To grow a plant, you need it:
You need to water the plant regularly and with enough water, otherwise, due to a lack of moisture, buds and flowers will fall off, and the flowering will be short-lived. In dry summers, it is recommended to water sweet peas every day, spending 30–35 liters of water per m2 of planting. To prolong flowering, you need to get rid of wilted flowers in time.
Tall varieties are tied to supports using a net or twine. As the plant grows, its stems should be directed in the right direction, after which they are tied up.
Feeding sweet peas is optional, but desirable. At the very beginning of growth, 1 tbsp is used as fertilizer. l. urea and 1 tbsp. l. nitrofosks, which are stirred in 10 liters of water. At the beginning of flowering, peas are fed with a solution of Agricola and potassium sulfate, for the preparation of which 10 liters of water are stirred in a tablespoon of these components. In the midst of flowering, the plant is fertilized with Agricola and Rossa, dissolving one tablespoon of fertilizers in a bucket of water.
Sweet peas can attack pests and fungal diseases. Of the pests, the most dangerous is the nodule weevil and various types of aphids. At the beginning of the growing season, the weevil gnaws semicircles at the edges of the leaves, and its larvae feed on the roots of the plant. As a preventive measure against a pest when planting seedlings, it is necessary to pour 100 ml of a 0.1% chlorophos solution into each hole. The plants themselves are sprayed with the same solution.
Sweet peas are most often affected by pea, chin and bean aphids. These small pests are able to suck sap from plants, deforming their organs and infecting them with viral diseases. To destroy aphids, peas should be treated 2-3 times with Tsiram and Tsineb preparations during the growing season.
Of the diseases, the plant affects:
With ascochitis, brown spots with clear boundaries appear on the stems, beans and leaves of peas. To cure the plant, it is treated with a solution of the Rogor preparation.
Peronosporosis and powdery mildew appear as a loose whitish bloom on the stems and leaves of plants. Gradually, they begin to turn yellow, turn brown and fall off. To destroy the causative agents of the disease, a 5% solution of colloidal sulfur is used, with which the leaves are washed.
Signs of fusarium are yellowing and withering leaves of sweet peas. The affected plant cannot be treated, therefore it is destroyed, and healthy bushes are treated with a solution of the Tilt preparation. For prophylaxis, crop rotation must be observed on the site.
From root rot and black legs, the roots and root collar darken at the pea, as a result of which the plant dies. Infected plants cannot be saved, so they are destroyed, and healthy ones are transplanted to another place, after disinfecting the soil and roots.
If a viral mosaic infects peas, it appears as a line pattern on the leaves, and the tops of the infected plants twist and deform. All plants that are sick with viral diseases should be removed and burned, because they cannot be cured.
Sweet pea is a climbing plant with many tendrils. It blooms for a long time and has a pleasant aroma. Due to this, it is widely used in the landscape design of the site and garden.
Tall curly varieties are used to decorate fences, verandas, arches. With the help of artificial plantations and pea supports, you can well mask the most unsightly areas of the garden. It also looks good in the background of the flower garden.
Low varieties are grown in balcony boxes, on the edge of a curb or flower bed. Peas can be combined well with other annuals and coexist well with perennials. It makes a tangible contribution to the ecology of the garden, enriching the soil with nitrogen and giving nectar to beneficial insects.