Apricot Favorite - sweet and juicy fruits for the whole family


Apricot Favorite belongs to the late ripening varieties. Differs in unpretentious care, early maturity and regular harvests. The fruits are appreciated for their high taste, strong aroma and attractive appearance.

Description of apricot Favorite

Apricot Favorite is a tree of moderate vigor. The height of an adult plant is 3-4 m, the crown is medium spreading. Annual shoots are branched, without pubescence, shiny, brown in color. The bark on old trunks is gray-brown and with longitudinal cracks. The leaf blade is medium in size, elongated, with a pointed end, the edge is serrated. The petiole is thin, the flowers are white, of medium size (diameter 2.8–3 cm). The last bloom until leaves appear.

The favorite was selected in 2000 by the breeder L.A. Kramarenko. The originator of the variety is the Main Botanical Garden. In 2004, the Favorite was included in the State Register for the Central Region. It is one of the preferred varieties for cultivation in the Moscow region.

Favorite apricot tree reaches 3-4 meters in height

Apricot fruits of the Favorit variety are large, average weight - 30 g. The shape is rounded, the surface is uneven, the pubescence is insignificant. The color is orange with a pronounced blush. The pulp is bright orange in color, its texture is dense and juicy. The stone is small, while it is easily separated from the pulp.

Fruits of the Favorite variety are large and appetizing

Table: Advantages and disadvantages of the variety

Benefitsdisadvantages
Early maturityLate ripening
Good presentationThe need for regular pruning and thinning of the crown
High frost resistanceDependence of fruit quality on weather conditions
Self-fertility
Good transportability

Planting rules

Optimal time and place

Apricot is a light and heat-loving culture, therefore, it is best to plant a tree in open ground in early spring (early April). When planted during this period, the seedling will root better, and the risk of frost damage to the tree will decrease. Autumn planting is less favorable.

For growing apricots, the southern sides of the site are suitable with free access to sunlight. The tree can be planted along a fence or near buildings. The main requirement is that the site must be protected from north and north-east winds and drafts.

For better rooting, a young tree can be shielded on the north side with a small white-painted shield. This design will reflect the sun's rays well and prevent the seedling from freezing.

Apricot grows well and bears fruit on small slopes and elevated areas. You should not plant a tree in lowlands and in places with constant flooding. The groundwater level should not be higher than 3-4 m.

The nutrient composition and structure of the soil also matter. For apricot Favorit, light fertile soils are suitable: sandy loam, loam and light loam. The optimum acidity is neutral or slightly acidic, the pH level is 6–7. The soil should be good for water and air. Sandy and clayey areas are not suitable. On non-irrigated chernozem, the tree begins to bear fruit late, and gives an irregular and meager harvest.

Good neighbors for apricot will be old pears, maple, oak, ash. These are trees with a developed and deep root system. In areas with such plants, the apricot usually always takes root.

How to choose seedlings?

A healthy seedling is the key to successful rooting, the development of a strong tree and a bountiful harvest. Therefore, it is best to buy planting material in specialized stores or nurseries. The seedlings offered in the markets are not always of good quality. Buying a tree from an online store is also not the best option. Even if the seller provides quality seedlings, they may be damaged in transit.

When buying planting material, consider the following:

  1. The external state of the trunk and branches. They should be even, with smooth bark without wounds, damage or wrinkles. For cultivation in the climatic conditions of the Moscow region, it is advisable to choose seedlings on stem formers. For the stock, frost-resistant and non-warming fruit crops are used: plum, apricot, cherry plum, peach. Almonds are also good. Thus, the frost resistance and drought resistance of the apricot are increased. The most drought-resistant apricot grafted on almonds, slightly less on peach and apricot. The lowest indicator of drought resistance is in apricot grafted on plum or cherry plum.
  2. The development of the root system. The spines must be undamaged. The presence of dried and frozen areas is unacceptable.

For planting, choose annual or biennial plants. They can be both open and closed root systems.

Seedlings that are sold in containers take root much better and enter the fruiting period earlier.

Choose seedlings with an even, well-formed stem

How to prepare a site?

It is best to prepare the site a year before planting the apricot. Since garden plots with one-component soil are more common in the Moscow region, it should be structured. For this, a planting pit is dug with a diameter of about 80 cm and a depth of 70 cm. Its size can be increased if the soil on the site is not enriched with nutrients. The poorer the soil, the larger the hole should be. Its bottom must be covered with drainage. It can be expanded clay, coarse gravel or broken brick.

For the pit, a soil mixture is prepared, consisting of clay, peat, sand, taken in a ratio of 1: 1: 1. Also add:

  • 500-700 g of lime (fluff) or wood ash;
  • 15–20 kg of organic fertilizers (compost or humus);
  • 500 g superphosphate;
  • 100 g of potassium salt.

From above, the planting pit is covered with a layer of clean soil.

The second option for preparing the pit is 2 weeks before planting the apricot seedling. The excavated soil is mixed with:

  • 10 kg of rotted humus;
  • 350 g superphosphate;
  • 70 g of potassium salt;
  • 350 g of wood ash.

With this preparation, fresh organic matter and ammonia fertilizers cannot be added, as they can burn the root system, as a result of which the seedling will die.

Step-by-step disembarkation process

Before proceeding with planting, you should trim off any dried or damaged roots. There is no need to update the cut of previously cut roots. The roots of the seedling are dipped in a soil mash. It is prepared just before planting: fertile soil is diluted with water to a state of thick sour cream. You can also add Heteroauxin to the mixture (0.1 g per 10 L of water). This product stimulates the formation of roots and promotes better development of the young tree.

  1. In a prepared place, a hole is dug with a diameter and depth of about 0.8 m.
  2. At the bottom, they make a small mound of earth.
  3. A peg is driven in at a distance of 10 cm from the center.
  4. A seedling is placed in the center of the pit. The roots are gently spread on a mound. The root collar should be 4–6 cm higher than the level of the pit.
  5. Falling asleep the hole, the seedling is periodically shaken. This is necessary to fill all voids with earth. The soil in the pit is carefully trampled underfoot.
  6. Tie the seedling to the peg with twine.
  7. A hole with a diameter of 40 cm is formed. An earthen roller is made along the edge.
  8. Water the plant with 15–20 liters of clean water. A liquid that is too cold cannot be used.
  9. The hole is mulched with dry soil, peat or wood chips.

In the first month after planting, you need to monitor soil moisture. The earth must not be allowed to dry out.

Planting a seedling on a certain hill will improve the living conditions of its root system

Video: Planting and caring for an apricot

Is pollination required?

The favorite belongs to self-fertile varieties, so it does not require additional pollinators. However, many gardeners advise, for a good ovary, to plant a tree next to such apricot varieties as Tsarsky, Monastyrsky, Lel.

Photo Gallery: Possible Pollinators for the Favorite

Features of apricot care

Proper care of the apricot will allow you to grow a strong and healthy tree, which will bring a bountiful harvest of quality fruits every year. The basic rules of agricultural technology are the timely pruning, feeding and protection of the tree from pests and diseases. It is necessary to keep the near-stem area clean, regularly remove weeds and periodically loosen the soil.

Pruning

It is best to prune apricots in spring. An autumn procedure can weaken the tree, especially if the season is cold and rainy.

In the early years, formative pruning is carried out. More often, a sparse-tiered form is chosen for the crown. In this case, 5-7 branches of the first order are grown with an arrangement interval of 35-40 cm.

  • The next year after planting, all branches located at a level of 90 cm from the ground are cut off. Initially, the two that are located along the main row are cut in half. Then the remaining branches are cut to the base, along the cambial ring. At the level of 20–25 cm above the main branches, only the conductor remains. At the end of summer, minor branches and those that grow at an acute angle are removed.
  • In the second year, the second tier is laid. At the level of 35–45 cm from the first branch, the second order is formed. Other branches are turned into overgrowing ones. Small annual branches are not pruned, and annual shoots, the length of which is 60 cm or more, are shortened by half. The center conductor is reduced 25 cm above the last branch.
  • The next year, a new tier is formed according to the same scheme.

After the formation of the crown, sanitary and thinning pruning is performed. Remove dry, broken branches, as well as shoots growing vertically and deep into the crown.

If the annual growth does not exceed 15 cm, anti-aging pruning is necessary. A strong thinning of the crown is carried out, cutting out the branches that thicken it, as well as growing deeper, old, dry and criss-crossing.

It must be remembered that strong formative pruning of the apricot can delay the onset of fruiting.

When pruning, use a sharp garden tool and a ladder. All cuts, the diameter of which exceeds 1 cm, must be treated with garden pitch.

Video: How to prune an apricot?

Watering

Apricot belongs to crops with a powerful and deep root system, therefore it is able to receive the necessary moisture from the lower layers of the soil. Under normal weather conditions, four main waterings are carried out:

  • in April;
  • in May;
  • in early July;
  • in October (water charging).

Irrigation is carried out using a drip irrigation system or through annular grooves. The water norm for an annual tree is 15–20 liters, for a two-year-old tree - 2 buckets, for a three-year-old tree - 3 buckets (further the rate increases). Each time you water, you need to moisten the soil 30–40 cm deep. For water charging irrigation, 50-60 liters of water per 1 square meter are required. m of the near-stem section.

After any watering, the hole must be mulched with dry soil, needles or wood chips.

Top dressing

They begin to feed the apricot of the Favorite variety after the first fruiting. Fertilizers are applied annually. The required rate is divided in half: the first part is added to the soil in early spring, the second - after harvesting. Apricot is fed with organic fertilizers once every three years.

The rate is calculated depending on the age of the plant:

  • 2-3 years: humus - 10-15 kg, superphosphate - 120 g, ammonium nitrate - 55 g, potassium chloride - 50 g;
  • 4–5 years: humus - 30 kg, superphosphate - 200 g, ammonium nitrate - 100 g, potassium chloride - 60 g;
  • 6–8 years: humus - 50 kg, superphosphate - 215 g, ammonium nitrate - 110 g, potassium chloride - 130 g;
  • 9 years and older: humus - 80 kg, superphosphate - 830 g, ammonium nitrate - 320 g, potassium chloride - 250 g.

Fertilizers are distributed evenly on the near-stem area and sprinkled with a layer of clean earth (7-10 cm).

Preparing the tree for winter

To prevent the tree from suffering from low temperatures, winter winds and snow, it is necessary to prepare it for wintering. To do this, you should:

  1. Whitewash the stems and bases of the skeletal branches in the fall with slaked lime or garden whitewash.
  2. Mulch the near-trunk area with sawdust, peat or spruce branches.
  3. Tie the crown of young trees with twine.
  4. If the winters are cold, form a garden shelter or spunbond cone over the tree. Sprinkle its base with sand or earth.
  5. To protect against hares, wrap tree trunks with nylon fabric or garden netting.
  6. To prevent the trees from being damaged by rodents, place special traps with fillers in the garden.

Lime solution for whitewashing must be used on the day of preparation, because during storage it will lose its basic properties

For mulching, do not use fallen leaves, straw and hay. Wire and other metal products are not used as fasteners.

Possible problems and solutions

The Favorite variety is highly resistant to all pests and diseases of stone fruit trees. However, non-compliance with agricultural technology can cause some diseases and provoke the appearance of harmful insects.

To prevent wood burns, chemical treatment should not be carried out in hot and humid weather.

Table: Prevention and treatment of diseases

DiseaseThe nature of the defeatPreparations for the fightPreventive actions
MoniliosisIt affects flowers, leaves, shoots and fruits. Flowers initially suffer. Thin and young shoots dry out completely, cracks appear on thicker ones.Phase "green bud": Bordeaux liquid 3%.
  1. Spraying the plant with a 5% urea solution in early spring.
  2. Cleaning of fallen leaves.
During flowering: Teldor preparation (8 g per 10 l of water).
After flowering: Horus (3 g per 10 L of water).
Clasterosporium diseaseIt is manifested by the presence of brown spots, which eventually lead to the appearance of holes on the leaves. Shoots are covered with round spots that crack and cause gum flow.At the beginning of bud break: carbamide solution 5%.
  1. Pruning and burning affected branches.
  2. Treatment of wood with 1% solution of copper sulfate after foliage has fallen.
Rosebud Phase: Horus (3 g per 10 L of water).
Spray every month during the growing season with a solution of copper sulfate (100 g of powder is diluted in 10 liters of soap solution).
Hommosis (gum flow)Transparent glassy formations, dried gum appear on the trunk and branches.During the season, treat the wounds on the bark with garden varnish and disinfect them with copper sulfate (100 g of powder per 10 liters of soap solution).
  1. When pruning, use a sharp tool and cover the cuts with garden pitch.
  2. Avoid mechanical damage to the tree bark.

Photo gallery: How do ailments manifest?

Table: Pests and control measures

PestThe nature of the defeatMeans of strugglePreventive actions
Plum mothButterflies lay their eggs on the fruit. While developing, the caterpillar gnaws into the flesh and damages the kernel of the stone. Signs: wormy apricots, droplets of gum are visible on the fruits.Before flowering: Karbofos (60 g per 10 l of water).Treatment of the plant in April with a 3% carbamide solution.
During the growing season: Ash (10 ml per 5 liters of water).
AphidSmall insects suck the juice from the leaves. They deform, curl and dry out. The productivity of the tree is sharply reduced.Before bud break: Nitrafen (300 g per 10 L of water).Compliance with agricultural techniques.
During budding: Karbofos (60 g per 10 liters of water).
Black goldBeetles damage the bark, gnaw through leaf petioles and gnaw buds. The larvae damage the roots.In mid-June, the crown, trunk and soil under the tree are sprayed with Karbofos (200 g per 10 l of water).
  1. Regular irrigation.
  2. Removing the remains of tree roots and shrubs from the pit before planting.
  3. Removing cherry plum growth if it grows nearby.

Photo gallery: What insects attack the apricot?

How to harvest, store and use the crop?

The favorite is a fast-growing variety. It bears fruit for 3-4 years after planting. Fruit ripening begins in August and lasts until the end of September. If the weather was cold and rainy in summer, most of the apricots may not ripen and remain unripe on the branches. The average tree yield is 18–23 kg.

In the refrigerator, fruits are stored in sealed paper bags or plastic containers. Under these conditions, apricots remain fresh for 6–8 days. At a temperature of 0-1 degrees and a humidity of 85-95%, fruits are stored for 30-40 days. With longer storage, the structure of the pulp is destroyed. In this case, the apricots are packed in small plastic or wooden boxes (no more than 4 kg).

The fruits can be stored frozen for 3-5 months. The bones are removed before freezing.

Apricots Favorite are suitable for drying. Dried fruits can be cooked naturally or processed in drying cabinets or the oven.

Apricots are eaten fresh and used for making spins. From them you can cook jam, jam, marmalade, compote and confiture. Also, fresh fruits are suitable for filling pies, desserts, and are used as an ingredient in fruit salads.

Aromatic seasonal preparations are made from Favorit apricots

Gardeners reviews

Apricot Favorite is an unpretentious variety. With the observance of agricultural technology, it gives regular yields of attractive and juicy fruits. The tree tolerates low temperatures and bears fruit well even in cool climates.


Apricot Khabarovsk is a rather tall tree, by the age of ten it reaches a height of 4.5-5.0 meters, the crown circumference is 5 meters or more. The crown itself is spreading, not thickened, on dark purple thick and straight branches there are whitish oblong stripes. Annual growths are strong and straight, their length can reach 1 meter (on young 3-4-year-old trees). Fruits are formed on fruit twigs on wood 2-3 years old.

Apricot fruits are medium, their weight is no more than 25-30 g, conical, slightly compressed on the sides, the seam in the middle of the fruit is deep and wide. The skin is covered with dense fibers, the color is pale yellow with characteristic red-orange spots on the sides. The tip of the fruit is pointed. Its orange pulp has a good taste and medium juiciness, a small stone separates well, and it tastes sweet.

The Khabarovsk apricot variety is recommended to be grown in the regions of the Far East, Primorsky and Khabarovsk territories (in their southern regions). Ripening dates for apricots are early and it manages to ripen even in areas with unfavorable climatic conditions. Good winter hardiness allows you to grow the Khabarovsk apricot in the Moscow region, in the Volga region and in the Urals.


Characteristics

Apricot "Manitoba" is attractive for its unpretentiousness. Before landing, you should study its main characteristics.

Drought tolerance, winter hardiness

This variety shows relative drought tolerance. The Canadian province of Manitoba has a harsh continental climate, which had a good effect on the apricot cultivated in it. This variety feels great in central Russia and does not require shelter for the winter. It belongs to the 4th zone of winter hardiness and survives frosts well down to -29-34 ° C.

This variety has a long period of deep winter dormancy. Good frost resistance in flower buds.

Pollination, flowering period and ripening times

Apricot "Manitoba" is self-fertile, that is, it does not need pollinating trees. To increase the number of ovaries, the neighborhood of such varieties is recommended:

  1. Pineapple.
  2. Dessert.
  3. Northern Triumph.

Flowering "Manitoba" falls on April-May. The timing of fruit ripening depends on the climate in a particular region. Usually the crop can be harvested as early as late July or early August.

Productivity, fruiting

Apricot "Manitoba" has an average yield. Fruiting begins at 3-4 years when planted with seedlings, at 5 years when grown from seed. In the southern regions, apricots can ripen in the first decade of July.

Scope of the fruit

Manitoba fruits are attractive for their size, taste and beautiful appearance. They can be eaten fresh or used for processing and preservation. Delicious jams, juices and compotes and preserves are made from apricots of this variety.

Disease and pest resistance

Apricot "Manitoba" has good immunity. This variety has a high resistance to many fungal and bacterial infections.

Advantages and disadvantages

Apricot "Manitoba" has many advantages:

  • good yield
  • large and sweet fruits
  • high winter hardiness
  • excellent immunity
  • versatility of crop application.

The only drawback of Manitoba is poor portability.


Advantages and disadvantages of the variety - table

Benefitsdisadvantages
High yieldAverage winter hardiness
Large, tasty fruits, edible boneLate ripening, in regions with a short autumn, annual increments do not have time to ripen
Pest resistantSuffers from moniliosis, claterosporia, gum flow
The variety is self-fertile, no pollinating neighbors are neededAfraid of the temperature drop in winter, which causes the root collar to blow out

Advantages and disadvantages

The Andromeda tomato variety, like other tomatoes, has many advantages. Among the positive qualities of these tomatoes are the following:

  • Great taste.
  • Early ripening of fruits.
  • Cold weather resistant.
  • High yield.
  • Long-term storage.

This variety also has its disadvantages:

  • It is often affected by late blight.
  • Poorly developed root system.
  • Fertilizer needs to be applied.
  • In cold regions, it can only be grown in a greenhouse.


Reviews who planted

Further to your attention are the reviews of Russian gardeners who had experience in growing the Prima Donna variety and shared their experience with everyone.

Elvira Gennadievna, Volgograd region

Elena Ivanovna, Rostov region

Maria Ilyinichna, Perm Territory

Ivan Petrovich, Moscow region

Victoria Sergeevna, Sverdlovsk region

Olga Vladimirovna, Tver region

Valentina Ivanovna, Kirov region

Natalia Maksimovna, Tula region


Watch the video: best healthy food of apricot. what health benefits of apricot?


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