Arrangement of crate for ondulin

Nowadays, ondulin is often used as a roof on the roof of a private house. This is due to the unusual lightness of the innovative material. Owners are also attracted by its other characteristics - resistance to precipitation, ease of installation. But at the same time, many do not know about the nuances when erecting a crate for a euro slate. We will reveal them in detail.

Design features of the lathing

If a decision is made to make a roof from ondulin, then the basis for fixing this material will allow additional savings. Indeed, in the construction of such a crate, a minimum of material is consumed in comparison with similar "skeletons" for other types of roofing. And on the thickness of the boards, there is also a small savings. The described advantages are due to the fact that ondulin is very light.

Fastening of the material can even be done alone, without helpers. The weight of one sheet does not exceed 10 kg. Therefore, it is raised independently, "in one hand," and immediately laid on the crate.

The base for ondulin looks in the usual way - to the inclined beams that form the roof slope, rafters, transverse boards, bars or any slabs are attached to install the roof.

The crate for ondulin looks classic

However, the specific dimensions of the spacing between the details of such a structure depend on the accepted angle of inclination of the roof.

Step crate for ondulin

There are three options here.

  1. The top of the house is completely horizontal or there are minimal deviations from straightness, that is, slopes with an angle of up to 10 degrees. In this case, instead of the crate, solid plywood or OSB sheets are laid. The thickness of such a coating is not less than 8 mm. The gaps between the plates are made only up to 2-3 mm.
  2. The slope of the slopes is from 10 to 15 degrees. Here, a familiar "ladder" is formed - a lattice structure. The step between the boards for the roof is minimal - from 30 to 40 cm. The lumber is taken as follows: either 50x50 mm bars, or non-planed boards 25-30 mm thick and 15 cm wide.
  3. The slope of the slope tends to half of the right angle. Here you can place adjacent crate elements at a distance of 60 cm from each other. In this case, it is enough to use the same boards 25–30 mm thick and 15 cm wide.

The step of the lathing for ondulin depends on the angle of inclination of the roof

The decision on the slope of the roof is made taking into account the region of construction and the purpose of the building itself. If, for example, this is a barn somewhere in arid areas, then its roof can be made without a slope at all. If this is a residential building in Siberia, where there is a lot of snow in winter and enough rain in summer, then ... The steeper the slopes, the better!

By the way, in regions with snowy winters, it is necessary to take into account the likelihood of roof deflection. After all, ondulin is an easily shape-changing material. And if the distance between the rafters (inclined roof beams) is more than a meter, then rather thin sheathing boards can bend under the load of a snow cap. In this case, the roof will become wavy, ugly. This factor must be taken into account, which means that boards under the crate must be laid with a thickness of more than 3 cm, or bars of 50x50 mm must be used, and the step in both cases must be made up to 45 cm.


Having decided on the design, it is advisable to draw it by hand with a pencil on paper. This will facilitate installation. On the sketch, it is worth mentioning other elements of the roof.

The step size may not be prescribed, but kept in mind

What material is suitable for the crate

Consider the case of a classic "ladder" with a step of 30 cm. Coniferous wood planks are usually used here. Most often there is a pine tree. The fact is that its cost is relatively low, and there is a lot of resin in the structure of such a material. This circumstance additionally protects the roof from rapid decay.

Boards are bought unplaned - so it turns out cheaper. Indeed, when fixing ondulin, the smoothness of the substrate coating does not play any role.

In the case when the crate is made solid, from slabs, the species of wood does not matter. Just buy thick plywood or OSB sheets. It all depends on the cost.

If funds permit, the sheets are attached even with a good slope.

Calculation of lumber depending on the step

Consider the option when the boards for fastening the roof are 40 cm apart from each other. For example, take the case with a pitched roof. Let the dimensions of the planned structure be 3 m slope by 5 m along the cornice. The ramp angle is 30 degrees. Let's calculate the number of boards with the following parameters: width 20 cm and thickness 3 cm.

So, the length of the sloped part of the roof is 3 m. Each element of the lathing has a width of 20 cm, to which a step of 40 cm is added. In total, one board with its indentation accounts for 20 + 40 = 60 cm of the total length. If we divide 3 m by 60 cm, we get 5. It turns out that we need 5 boards for the crate.

However, the length of the slope from the side of the cornice is 5 m. Boards of this length can not always be found. It is easier to buy parts with a length of 3 meters. Then their number will double. Therefore, we need 5 x 2 = 10 of the indicated boards 3 meters long.

It is more convenient to fix them in a checkerboard pattern.

In the case of short boards, staggered installation is easier

With a similar method, at the joints, the ends of the boards will overlap each other. This will happen at about the middle of the cornice. Indeed, in our case, each part is 50 cm longer than half a five-meter size. It is better to fasten these ends with scraps of bars.

It is enough to hammer in such wooden screeds with nails directly into the closing parts of the sheathing boards. This will further strengthen the roof from sagging under the mass of snow in winter.

After determining the number of boards, you need to calculate the number of fasteners. For each end of the part to be nailed, you will need two nails or self-tapping screws. If there are 10 boards, then you have to buy 10 x 4 = 40 elements.

What to choose: nails or screws, is decided individually. It all depends on the preferences of the owner. Both are suitable. The only drawback of self-tapping screws is that their heads break off from moisture over the years. But on the other hand, with such fasteners, you can adjust the strength of the tie of two parts.

Step-by-step instructions for installing the crate for ondulin

Consider the case already described with a 40 cm pitch and short boards. We start after the rafters (sloped roof beams) and the cornice are installed. For work, we arm ourselves with nails, a hacksaw and a hammer, as well as a furniture stapler. Well, of course, don't forget about the stairs.

  1. If the insulating film is not fixed under the ramp-forming bars, proceed as follows: spread the polyethylene and attach it to the rafters with a stapler.

    Similar materials are used instead of polyethylene.

  2. First, we lay the cornice boards. The first board should protrude from both sides along the width of the eaves. We measure the required distance with a tape measure or a special cut of a bar prepared in advance for the required size. We hammer in a nail at the end of the installed part. At the same time, we try to ensure that the "sting" of the fastener enters without a bevel directly into the middle of the "body" of the inclined beam - the rafters.

    When working, you will have to rely on already installed parts

  3. Checking and adjusting the desired step size. On the other side of the sheathing board we drive in the second nail.
  4. Finally, we fix the part with two more nails.
  5. We extend our first "step" of the crate. To do this, we install the board so that its end is close to the already attached part. We hammer in a nail approximately at the junction. We repeat points 3 and 4.

    Forming the first "step", adjacent boards are tightly pressed against each other

  6. We fix 4 more levels of the structure, repeating steps 2-5. Only we no longer retreat from the cornice, but from the previously installed part. The second lathing board is laid at a distance of 30 cm from the first, the rest - with the desired step.
  7. When the crate is ready, we nail a wind board over it, stepping back 4 cm.
  8. The last step is to install the ridge boards.

At the end of the process, having descended to the ground, the foreman usually evaluates the result by inspecting the structure from a certain distance from the house.

The nuances of attaching ondulin to the crate

During the final installation of the specified roofing material, special nails with rubber or plastic washers are used. Usually these consumables are supplied complete with ondulin blanks. The color of the washers and caps corresponds to the selected sheet palette.

Cap in the color of the roofing sheet protects the nail head from rain

In the process of fixing our "soft slate" the main thing is to remember the following two rules.

  1. Fasteners are hammered into the upper part of the wave of the roof profile sheet. If the nail is in the depression, then its cap during the operation of the roof will interfere with the drainage of precipitation. Dirt particles will begin to accumulate around the cap. This will reduce the service life of the ondulin sheet and the nail itself.

    Neighboring fasteners must be in line

  2. For one blank of roofing material, you must use at least 20 nails. About 3 pieces are driven into each wave. And since there are usually 7 waves, there are 21 attachment points.

    Each sheet is fixed at 20 points in a specific sequence

The process is extremely simple. The ondulin sheet is laid on the crate, aligned along the edge of the roof and fixed. The next workpiece is installed so that at least one wave (or preferably two) overlaps the corresponding element of the previous sheet. That is, so that it lies exactly on top.

When laying sheets of ondulin, it is important to observe the amount of overlap

If the roof slope is larger in size than the sheet of "soft slate", then the second workpiece along the total length is also laid with the upper overlap of the first by 20-30 cm. In this case, the installation of the ondulin must begin from the eaves. At the first workpiece, a protrusion is made beyond the edge of the house by 5–10 cm. The last, top sheet, adjacent to the ridge of the roof, is cut to the required size with a hacksaw, if necessary. By the way, shortening ondulin with such a tool is easy and pleasant.

At the end of the work, skates and other elements are installed

The finished roof is checked with the first rain.

It turns out that both the installation of the lathing for ondulin and the installation of the roof itself are available to one person. He can do without helpers. The main thing is to observe the described wisdom so that the roof will last a long time. The declared service life of ondulin is 50 years. But even in the event of any dents or gaps, for example, due to natural disasters, some of the damaged sheets can be easily replaced by yourself. And the roof will again delight the eye with its former appearance.

Ondulin roof - the advantages of self-arrangement

How to equip roofing in a short time? Choose the best way for independent work. The ondulin roof has established itself among the owners of private and country houses as a modern high-quality coating. The material is characterized by durability, excellent strength and affordability. Roof structures using ondulin sheets with your own hands are an excellent option for overlapping a house.

Features of rafter systems

Rafters from different slopes in the valley can be connected at different angles (depending on the shape of the roof). At the junction, a rafter leg is installed, to which the rafters from the slopes are attached. With a small length (up to 2 m), it is enough to fasten them on nails (2 on each side), with a significant length of the junction, they are reinforced with metal plates.

In places of greatest load (at the widest point), the rafter leg of the valley is supported from below by a jib.

A support is placed at the bottom at the widest point

Types of lathing

Depending on the design and the roof unit, the lathing for the metal tile is mounted in several ways. A step (discharged) lathing is used on structures with a slope of more than 20 °. In this case, the pitch of the board is equal to the wavelength of the roofing material.

The minimum permissible roof slope for metal tiles is 14 °.

On shallower structures with an angle of inclination of 15 - 20 °, it is recommended to use a continuous crate made of boards (with a minimum allowable gap of 0.5 - 1 cm to compensate for seasonal expansion (contraction) of wood) or sheet lumber. Also, this type of installation is required around dormers and roof hatches on the external and internal fractures of the roof slopes (ridge, valley) at the abutments to walls and pipes at the points of attachment of snow holders, roof fences, stairs.

As a rule, when constructing a roof, both types of battens are used. And special attention is paid to important solid areas. It is also worth noting that a solid crate for metal tiles (especially sheet materials) raises a number of controversial questions. Is it economical? And what about ventilation and condensation? The answers are obvious. Therefore, the only alternative is to use a thicker board and fix it in the right places (like a valley, for example) with a minimum step.

Sheathing device for metal tiles: step, materials and technology

In construction, there are 3 types of roofing battens: solid, thinned and made of sheet materials. Solid assumes fastening the boards in a joint to each other, which requires a large amount of material.

The construction of sheet materials, such as plywood and OSB sheet, is universal and quite suitable for laying metal tiles on it. However, the most suitable for it is a sparse crate for metal tiles, the step of which must be calculated individually for each type of profile.

To calculate this step, it is necessary to nail the first edged board parallel to the eaves and the last parallel to the ridge at the very top of the ramp. Then the sheet is laid in such a way that its lower spade rested against the end of the first sheathing board. The top of the sheet should rest on the board closest to the ridge.

Then a place is marked for all intermediate boards of the sheathing. They should be nailed in such a step that the sheet rests on each of them with the top of the steps. Places of bends should not be between the boards. Strictly speaking, the step of the sheathing under the metal tile should be equal to the step of its transverse wave.

Vertical and horizontal step of the lathing

How to Prepare?

It is quite possible to do the installation of the lathing under the roofing material with your own hands. First, you should stock up on all the necessary tools and fasteners, which include:

  • nails and hammer
  • screws and screwdriver
  • hacksaw (instead of it you can buy a grinder - it will be more convenient to work with it)
  • pliers
  • special pencil or chalk for marking
  • roulette
  • bubble or laser building level.

When you have purchased all the tools and materials, you can proceed to the preparatory work. You should not neglect them, otherwise, as a result, the design may turn out to be unstable and short-lived, and it will be very difficult to install it.

Stages of work.

  • Measure the roof carefully first. Then you should start preparing the boards for the manufacture of the frame structure.
  • If the roofing material has an impressive weight, then it is better to use wide edged boards. Such details can easily withstand the heavy weight of the roof.
  • Experts also recommend sorting the building material. This is due to the fact that in many batches there is substandard, which is thinner or thicker. The use of different-sized elements often leads to the fact that the roof is laid with irregularities and bumps.
  • If you want to additionally insulate the attic space, then before installing the lathing and the roof, you need to lay a special anti-condensation film on the base.Fastening of this material should be done directly to the rafters. The film must be mounted with horizontal strips. In this case, an overlap of at least 10-15 cm should be made. There is no need to stretch the film - it should sag slightly between the rafters. It is recommended to fasten such material using bars with a thickness of no more than 3 cm.

  • In addition, it is necessary to calculate the pitch of the lathing before proceeding to its installation. It is determined depending on the dimensions of the roof. For example, the bottom of the wave is the best place to install a popular metal tile. In the area where one wave ends and the next begins, you need to screw in a self-tapping screw. In the same place, you need to further install a board or timber.

Please note that each manufacturer produces metal tiles with their own depth parameters. This indicator, first of all, depends on the height of the profile. For this reason, before starting the installation of the battens, the wavelength of the material should be checked.

Decorating standard roof elements

To close the ridge, valley, forceps, special ondulin elements are used. They are attached according to the same principles as Euro-slate sheets. At the joints of the roof and vertical elements of the roof, special aprons from the same ondulin are used. The joints should be treated with waterproofing materials so that water does not get under the ondulin leaves.

For the correct laying of bituminous slate, in order to extend its service life, it is necessary to adhere to the following rules:

· Work should be carried out in dry weather at an air temperature of no higher than 25 degrees in the shade. With such indicators of a thermometer, in the sun the air heats up to 30 degrees, which corresponds to the melting point of bitumen. Installation under such conditions, to put it mildly, will be ineffective. Ondulin will melt at the point of attachment with nails, and gaps will form. A finished roof made of ondulin can easily withstand any heat, because the nails are fixed, and the material is not exposed to mechanical stress. A similar recommendation applies to the cold season, from zero degrees and below. Ondulin becomes tough and fragile.

· When walking on the roof during and after installation, do not step on the roofing material between waves. Such a load on the ondulin sheet leads to its deformation. Whereas the protruding ridge of the leaf is able to withstand any load.

· The instructions for the installation of ondulin indicate that twenty nails must be used to fasten one sheet. An attempt to save money will lead to the breakdown and turn of the sheet by a gust of wind. The same rule applies to self-tapping screws, which fasten the euro-slate in cases where the lathing is made of metal.

· In places with dissimilar materials: on the ridge of the roof, valleys, gable, - it is recommended to provide additional waterproofing with a special self-adhesive unduflesh tape, which is sold together with ondulin sheets.

Do-it-yourself installation of the roof with euro-slate is not difficult. Subject to all the rules, such a roof will last for many years.

Watch the video: LA TÔLE TUILE - YOUSTEEL

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